Reference: 
RA
Type: 
Rock
Pitch: 
# Alpine
(Commitment)
Alpine
(Technical)
Alpine
(Mt Cook)
Ewbank Aid Water Ice Mixed Boulder
(Hueco)
Length Bolts Trad
100140037m9N
 Climb the second line of bolts from the right-hand end of the slab.The climb follows a prominent rib left of the Totara bushes before moving onto the open face above. Belay at the left end of the ledge the climb arrives ( you can see the climber from there) and then move across teh Aubrey step to belay behind the shrubbery. NB The lower double rings are for abseil descent. Alternatively and quite popular was to start up the Shark Attack line, climb into the yellow scoop and diagonal up R.
200130036m11N
 This is the primo long pitch.From the belay behind the trees, climb up and over a small bulge(crux) then stay left of the arete up the line of bolts (passing a abseil anchor en route) until reaching a substantial ledge with another anchor. Clip the next bolt on the left (ignoring the anchors) climb the pedestal and continue on a short 10m (2 B) pitch to the next ledge where Shark Attack finishes. The arete can be climbed higher.
300150020m6N
 Variant a) From Shark Attack/Red arete belay head L up easy slab to base of bulging wall R of Mako. Through the bulge on the left then up face left of the arete to a ring belay. another bolt protects the easy traverse to the Mako anchor further up the ridge. Variant b) 3 Bolts. from the back edge of the SA/RA ledge follow steep slightly run out Grade 13 climbing to the same anchor. Serious if you stuff up getting to bolt 2.
First ascent: 
Tom Fyfe, 1894 (reputedly)
First ascent: 
Pitch 3a,3b 4/16 Simon Middlemass
Quality: 
3

Tom Fyfe reputedly climbed this route solo, as preparation for the first ascent of Aoraki Mt Cook. It has since been retro-bolted and makes a superb moderate multi-pitch rock climb. It is probably best climbed in two long pitches to the to of Shark Attack belay on the big ledge below the upper bulging headwall.There are optional extra short pitches that follow the arete from ledge to ledge. Some pro might be required.

Route Image: 
Grade: 
14 ,13 ,15
Length: 
93
Bolts: 
26
Natural pro: 
No
Gone: 
No
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