|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
Climb the second line of bolts from the right-hand end of the slab.The climb follows a prominent rib left of the Totara bushes before moving onto the open face above. Belay at the left end of the ledge the climb arrives ( you can see the climber from there) and then move across the Aubrey step to belay behind the shrubbery. NB The lower double rings are for abseil descent. Alternatively and quite popular was to start up the Shark Attack line, climb into the yellow scoop and diagonal up R.
This is the primo long pitch.From the belay behind the trees, climb up and over a small bulge(crux) then stay left of the arete up the line of bolts (passing a abseil anchor en route) until reaching a substantial ledge with another anchor. Clip the next bolt on the left (ignoring the anchors) climb the pedestal and continue on a short 10m (3 B) pitch to the next ledge where Shark Attack finishes. The arete can be climbed higher.
Variant b) 4 Bolts. from the back edge of the SA/RA ledge follow steep slightly run out Grade 13 climbing to the same anchor.
Tom Fyfe reputedly climbed this route solo, as preparation for the first ascent of Aoraki Mt Cook. It has since been retro-bolted and makes a superb moderate multi-pitch rock climb. It is probably best climbed in two long pitches to the top of Shark Attack belay on the big ledge below the upper bulging headwall.There are optional extra short pitches that follow the arete from ledge to ledge. Some pro might be required. If you climb the 2nd pitch as one long one you will need about 13 quickdraws. There are many anchors over this wall - most with rings are to facilitate escape on a single 60m rope. They are not necessarily a good place to belay at on ascent. Lots of variations exist.
Tom Fyfe, 1894 (reputedly)
Pitch 3a,3b 4/16 Simon Middlemass