|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
A classic Mt Cook climb. Ascend snow slopes on the edge of the East Face to gain the ridge 400m up, then up a rock step of poor rock (in certain conditions this can be sidled on the East Face). Above here follow snow slopes and the occasional rock pitch to gain the Summit Rocks where the standard Linda Glacier route is joined. Then ascend the north-east arête (commonly referred to as the ‘ice cap’) to the summit. The first three pitches of this route are the steepest, after which it relents a little.
Mattias Zurbriggen (with John Adamson to 3200m), Mar 1895.
Dave Vass, Dave Chowdhury, Alan Wood, Steve Hodgkinson, Jun 1983.