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The route used for the first ascent of the Sheila Face is still the standard route. The route begins close to the base of Fyfe’s Gut, on the right of a wide gully. Two grade 12 pitches take you onto the buttress which is followed on relatively easy, occasionally loose rock. The rib is wide and there are a number of alternatives. 200m below the summit, the rib meets a 50m flat ridge. Above here follow either the buttress of good rock, or if iced, move left into a couloir to reach the summit. Some quite quick ascents were recorded at different times in the 1980's by John Dale and Calum Hudson of around 3 hours
5- 12,VI 4 5- 12
Austin Brookes, Ron Dickie, Ralph Miller, Jan 1967.
Bill McLeod, Jun 1986