Very popular, and the most common way up Mt Haidinger. It is also the recommended descent route. The ridge is fairly straightforward (but beware of cornices) until the last 100m of rock, which if iced can be tackled either by traversing out slightly on the east face or up the couloir to the west. The ridge can be gained at many points. The usual routes are:
(i) The ridge can be gained at many points. The most elegant way lies up the arête which reaches the ridge 400m before the summit.
(ii) Along the divide from Governor Col, which involves a step halfway along the ridge must be ascended, otherwise the ridge is fairly straightforward (beware of cornices) until the last 100m of rock, which if iced, can be tackled either by traversing out slightly on the East Face or up the couloir to the west.
- P1
- Alpine (Technical) 3
- Alpine (Commitment) II
- Alpine (Mt Cook) 3-
If climbed from Governor Col, a step halfway along the ridge must be ascended, otherwise the ridge is fairly straightforward (beware of cornices) until the last 100m of rock, which if iced, can be tackled either by traversing out slightly on the East Face or up the couloir to the west.