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Black Tower Pk

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Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 East Ridge, 3 3

From the base of route 3.29 ascend the couloir up the north slopes to reach
Hope Col. Follow the east ridge until a difficult section is reached.
Climbing parties have turned this problem on both the Hopkins and Le Blanc
sides. A classic chimney follows soon afterwards, and beyond the climb is a
scramble to the summit.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3

 South Face, 3+ 3+

A winter climb on Black Tower was achieved after helicoptering in to the
shelf on the south face at 2000m. Two hours of unroped climbing to the col
were followed by some careful leading on ice and loose rock up the west ridge
to the summit. Eleven abseils were required on the descent to the hanging

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+

 West Ridge, 3+ 3+

The first ascent of Black Tower involved an 8 1/2 hour traverse from Mt
McKerrow along the 'tottery' ridge. At the col between the ridge and Black
Tower, descend on loose rock to the snowfield, cross the col then climb
gingerly up loosely stacked slates on the south ridge. On the summit is an
impressive cairn built by the first ascent party. At least one party has used
the cairn as a belay anchor.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+

 Le Blanc Face, 4+ 4+

From the lower Le Blanc glacier ascend steep rock and icecliffs to reach the
northern snowslopes. Once on the relative safety of the snowfield traverse
across to gain the west ridge to the summit. A difficult and dangerous climb
which required a bivouac before the summit was reached. Exit from the climb
was over Mt Hopkins, with a further bivouac on the summit of that peak. First
attempted by TomBarcham, AlecWitten-Hannah and Ash Cunningham in December

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4+