Main Cliff (Wall of Fate)

(22 routes)

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Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North
Access: 

1/ To get to the Main Cliff continue down the road/track veering right at the 2nd fork then down this road till you reach the river and a steel water pipe. The cliffs in this area are referred to as “The Pipe Line Wall”. Follow the pipeline down river till you reach a stream. This means you’ve gone to far. Backtrack 10 metres then take the track marked by a couple of poles. This leads up through the bush cross a large slip then up a series of steps to the crag. The track meets the Main Cliff at the Galaxy wall area near “Hand Christian”. For the Main Cliff continue along the track that leads along the base of the cliff to the fare left end.
2/ Having got to the main cliff follow a rough track rightwards.
3/ From the right hand end of the Millennium Wall follow a rough track for about 15m till you reach the next distinguishing feature of the Main Cliff, a large right facing arching corner.
4/ From the base of "Three Step to Heaven" (Arch Wall), the track drops down from the cliff before moving right and crossing a large slip. Scramble up the right hand side of the slip to the base.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
The Root 18 25m
0
wire representing trad
Climb the groove with a prominent tree root (use root as runners). Continue up the gnarly crack into the large right facing corner. Climb the face, using small wires for pro, with some delicate climbing to the DBC belay. (Pro: CD, Wires & slung roots)
Dave Garrity, Craig Martin & Elsie Lemordant: 14-Aug-00
Billy Bold 17 12m
1.02
wire representing trad
Ten metres right of the slip is a left facing corner crack system which finishes at a ledge at half height, this is the line of Billy Bold. Face climbing leads to the base of the corner crack. From here jam and layback the fist crack till you reach the ledge, DBC belay. (Pro: CD, Wires)
Bryce Martin & Craig Martin: 17-Mar-00
Quarry Climbing 19 12m
2.01
2bolts wire representing trad
Two metres to the right of Billy Bold and finishing at the same belay ledge is the line Quarry Climbing. Climb up past 2 bolts then follow the thin crack which widens to fingers then hands. DBC belay. Reminiscent of climbing at Mt Eden quarry and in true quarry style an ascent has been made without using the bolts. (Pro: SCD, CD, Wire, 2 Bolts)
Bryce Martin: 5-Mar-00
Real Rock 21 25m
1.02
2bolts wire representing trad
Starts 3m to the right of Quarry Climbing on a ledge 2m above the track. Bridge and layback the corner then swing round onto the left arete and move up onto ledge. Follow the right facing corner crack to a large detached flake (A good but somewhat obtrusive rest can be gained by sitting atop of the flake). Follow the crack over steep ground then continue up past 2 bolts (crux). DBC (Pro: CD, Wires).
Dave Garrity, Cliff Ellery and Elsie Lemordant: 19-Oct-00
Sidewinder 22 22m
0
4bolts wire representing trad
Five metres to the right of Quarry Climbing and about 20m up is a large detached pinnacle. Sidewinder climbs up the outside of this feature. Start directly below the pinnacle up a set of twin cracks. Continue up the slanting crack to the right side of the pinnacle then step left round onto the front face (bolt). Climb obliquely left (hay, I just write the descriptions as they are given to me) onto the left-hand side then up past 2 more bolts before topping out on the summit of the pinnacle. DBC belay, abseil descent. (Pro: CD, Wires, 4 Bolts)
Kevin Barratt, Dennis Sanders, Catriona Davis: Dec-99
Penny Lane 19 25m
0
wire representing trad
Start up slab move right into corner. Climb corner till you get you hands on the ledge (crux), do not climb on to ledge but instead move left into crack system. Do not climb chimney system of finger of fate , climb the crack direct up to the belay of Finger of Fate. (Pro: Trad)
Bryce Martin 2011
Finger of Fate 17 ,16 25m
1.02
wire representing trad
Climb the corner and then move left and climb the next short corner to the base of the pinnacle chimney. DBC Belay. (Pro: LCD, CD, Wires)
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11713mYes
 Climb the corner and then move left and climb the next short corner to the base of the pinnacle chimney. DBC Belay. (Pro: LCD, CD, Wires)
21612mYes
 Climb the chimney and belay on top of the pinnacle. DBC belay, abseil descent.(Pro: Bolts)
Kevin Barratt, Dave Harwood, Jan Wasy & Craig Martin: Nov- 99
Perfect Light 21 25m
1.02
5bolts wire representing trad
Start up the right facing corner of Finger of Fate breaking right at the first ledge to continue up the wall to the right of the thin crack. Climb into the right facing hanging corner breaking left 5m from the top up the steep face and wide crack. DBC belay abseil descent. (Pro, LCD, CD, 5 bolts)
Kevin Barratt: Mar-01
Lats Rule Thinking 23 30m
1.02
9bolts wire representing trad
Starts just right of the large right facing corner of Finger of Fate. Climb the face and shallow grooves past 4 bolts (crux) then continue over easier ground past five more bolts to the left facing corner. Once through the corner follow the crack to the hanging tree and DBC belay, 30m abseil descent therefore double ropes needed. Sustained climbing and the top crack section is longer than it looks from the ground. (Pro: CD, Wires, 9 Bolts)
Bryce Martin, Kevin Barratt: Feb-01
Scavenger 24 30m
1.02
9bolts wire representing trad
A line cleaned and partly bolted by Aaron who then abandoned the project when he shifted south. The circling buzzards could be seen for months over head before the line was finally picked off. Start three metres to the right of “Lats Rule Thinking”. Climb up the middle of the face past 3 bolts then pull over the small roof (crux). Move up and right (see note) then continue up the groove just to the left of the arete. Climb the short crack above (1 to 2 friend sizes) and top out on the small ledge, DBC belay. Bold but safe climbing. (Note. On the first ascent the 7th bolt of Lat Rule Thinking was clipped before the move right was made, double ropes req. (Pro: 9 bolts & CD)
Cliff Ellery, Richard Knott: 15-Jul-01
Robin 23 18m
2.01
7bolts
Immediately right of Scavenger. Climb up blocky ground move right at the 5th bolt and mantel the ledge (crux). Climb the steep corner above with a difficult finishing move onto the belay ledge. DBC belay, abseil descent. To date the second pitch has not been climbed. (Pro 7 bolts).
Aaron Ford: 4-Jan-00
Batman 27 18m
1.02
6bolts
The direct line of Robin. Strenuous start through the bulge to 2nd bolt. Bridge up twin cracks to 4th bolt then a thin move up and left with a big throw off, small crimps to ledge. Finish as with Robin. (Pro: 6 Bolts)
Aaron Ford: 1-Apr-01
Theropod 27 18m
1.02
5bolts
The bolted line immediately right of Batman (Pro Bolts)
Martyn Owen Spring 2006
Fossil Free Zone 23 18m
0
5bolts
The bolted line immediately right of Theropod (Pro Bolts)
Martin Owen Spring 2006
Name Game 21 20m
1.02
7bolts
Starts 5m right of Batman at the lowest part of the cliff. Delicate climbing up face past 4 bolts leads to a difficult sequence at the left facing corner. (The only advice I’m allowed to give is, Move left). Continue up the corner to DBC belay. (Pro: 7 Bolts)
Bryce Martin: Dec-01
Lock ‘n’ Load 24 10m
1.02
4bolts
From the Name Game move up onto the narrow ledge that runs along the base of the cliff. In the middle of this face is Lock ‘n’ Load. Power straight up the middle of the wall to a DBC belay. Hard start with the crux at the 4th bolt. (Pro: 4 Bolts)
Aaron Ford, Sally Carter Oct-00
Lock ‘n’ Rock 25 10m
0
5bolts
Just right of Lock ‘n’ Load and starting just left of the Manuka tree is Lock’ n’ Rock. Climb the face then veer left and follow the diagonal break to the DBC belay of Lock ‘n’ Load. (Pro: 5 Bolts).
Aaron Ford, Sally Carter 21-Jan-00
Stealing Dads Rack 17 15m
0
wire representing trad
The crack and corner system 5m to the right of Lock ‘n’ Rock. Climb the groove and crack to the overhang, which is climbed using the triangular block. BDC belay, descent by abseil. (Pro: CD, Wires)
Craig Martin: Jan-01
Its Not the Size 20 9m
0
3bolts
Just right of the groove of Stealing Dads Rack is a small buttress. Climb up and over the bulge to the ledge and DBC belay. (Pro: 3 Bolts)
Phil Goss: Mar-01
Grit Pike Thin 19 15m
1.02
wire representing trad
Five metres to the right of “The Triangle”. Start up the slab past a bolt then move into the left facing corner. Climb the crack through step section onto the face then move up to the left facing corner. Once established in the corner (crux) continue up the crack to a DBC belay. Descend by abseil. Dave was going to climb the bottom slab without the bolt, inspired by “Hard Grit” but then Piked. (Pro: SCD, CD, Wires)
Dave Garrity, Craig Martin, Bryce Martin: 28-Sep-00
Forever 22 in the Gym 18 15m
0
wire representing trad
Just right of the “Grit Pick Thin” climb crack system. (Pro: Trad)
Natural Progression 25 15m
0
5bolts
The bolted line immediately above the fixed rope (Pro: Bolts)