Main Cliff, (Millennium Wall)

(10 routes)

Having got to the main cliff follow a rough track down to the far-left hand end of the crag till you come to an obvious right facing corner crack system capped by a roof, this is the line of Millennium Madness. Three meters to the left is a small picnic area and a short corner crack system, the start of “Supper C. Ellery” and “Rotovagus”.


To get to the Main Cliff continue down the road/track veering right at the 2nd fork then down this road till you reach the river and a steel water pipe. The cliffs in this area are referred to as “The Pipe Line Wall”. Follow the pipeline down river till you reach a stream. This means you’ve gone to far. Backtrack 10 metres then take the track marked by a couple of poles. This leads up through the bush cross a large slip then up a series of steps to the crag. The track meets the Main Cliff at the Galaxy wall area near “Hand Christian”. For the Main Cliff continue along the track that leads along the base of the cliff to the fare left end.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Sex Kitten 24 28m
Climb the easy angle but featureless bulges to a large ledge. From here climb over the steep and featureless bulge (crux) then move up the easier ground above followed by a steep Finish on large holds.
David Hood
Super C Ellery 26 30m
6bolts wire representing trad
Start up the short corner crack of RotoVegas then veer left onto the face. Climb past 6 bolts finishing at a 2 ring bolt Belay. A bit of a sequence problem lower down with a powerful section near the top. (Pro: SCD, CD, Wires, 6 Bolts)
Dave Hood, Martyn Owen: 3-Feb-01
Root Celery 29 10m
Direct Start to Super C Ellery. Thin, technical, bouldery climbing past three bolts to join Super C Ellery at the no hands horizontal where that route leaves Rotovagus and heads up the wall. Finish up Super C Ellery.
Martyn Owen 2006
RotoVegas 25 30m
2bolts wire representing trad
Start up the short corner crack, then move right into the adjacent crack system. Climb the crack and groove above, past one bolt, then continue up easier ground till you reach the small overhang (bolt) which is climbed utilizing the right arete. Move back left and continue straight up to the DBC belay. Two cruxes one at each bolt. (Pro: SCD, CD, Wires, 2 Bolts)
Cliff Ellery, Bryce Martin: Jan-01
Millennium Madness 18 15m
wire representing trad
The obvious right facing corner and roof system. Climb the finger cracks around both roofs to the DBC belay. (Pro: SCD, CD)
Stolen By. Bryce Martin, Kevin Barratt, Jo McMurray: 01-Jan-00
Monster Madness 27 25m
4bolts wire representing trad
Up the start of Mellenium Madness on trad then at the good stance under the big roof (which no-one had thought to climb?!), step left to bolt and punch it through a powerful yet technical boulder to the lip, then weave up the headwall above!
Philip Bogenschütz, Karl Schimanski: November, 2009
Mid Year Madness 24 25m
2bolts wire representing trad
The continuation of Millennium Madness. Clip the belay off MM then climb through the roof (good hold on the lip) then continue up the thin crack and arete above. Belay off the large pine tree just below the top of the cliff. (Pro: SCD, CD, W, 2 Bolts)
Cliff Ellery, Kevin Barratt: June-00
Sun Dried Tomatoes 22 15m
Follow the line of bolts moving right after the 3rd bolt then continue directly up to the DBC belay (Pro: 5 bolts)
Martyn Owen, Nick Adams: July-00
Ring Them Bells 17 15m
Straight up the line of bolts to a DBC belay (Pro: 6 bolts)
Bryce Martin: 11-Jan-00
Dogs Breakfast 18 17m
The right most line of bolts on Millennium Wall. Climb the wall and arete to the DUB belay. [Pro 7 bolts]
Andrew Whitmore 16-05-03