Lakeside Wall

(21 routes)

Climbing is currently (2021) possible at Lakeside Wall after it was closed for several years. The access path is still reasonably overgrown. This is a fantastic winter crag and one of the best mid-20s walls in the North Island, especially if you like long, technical routes.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North West
Access: 

From the carpark, continue up the tarsealed road to the top of the hill and the old village site. Take the second tarsealed road on your left, then almost immediately head into the bush towards the lake via a rough track. Follow the track steeply down beside an old water pipe. The first route you come to is about 50m from the base of the hill. Routes are described from left to right.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Beauty and the Beast 23,27 22m
2.01
7bolts 1 wire representing trad
Both pitches were destroyed by a pine tree root in 2019.
Martyn Owen, 24 January 2003
Brass Monkey 20,22 40m
0
3bolts wire representing trad
Cliff Ellery, David Bland, Kevin Barratt 6 July 2003
Short Span 22 20m
1.02
8bolts
Kevin Barratt, Bryce Martin, 8 July 2003
Love Handle Expansion 24 26m
2.01
10bolts
Martyn Owen, 24 January 2003
Rule of the Red Rose 29 26m
2.01
10bolts
Stalemate 28 26m
3
10bolts
Martyn Owen, 24 January 2003
Under the Thumb 20 13m
0
4bolts
Mantle on to the ledge, then climb the groove and arete above to finish at half height (the starting belay of Thumbs Up).
Andrew Whitmore, Martyn Owen, August 2003
Finger and Thumbs 25 12m
0
4bolts
Martyn Owen, August 2003
Thumbs Up 24 13m
0
5bolts
Andrew Whitmore, 6 July 2003
Outside Edge 26 25m
2.01
8bolts wire representing trad
Cliff Ellery, 6 July 2003
Collective Agreement 26 25m
2.01
11bolts
Martyn Owen, 21 November 2003
Rolling Stoppages 26 18m
1.02
6bolts
Martyn Owen, 3 April 2002
Industrial Action 22 22m
3
10bolts
This route has a bit of everything, beginning with a crack section and continuing up the wall on rounded holds into the base of a corner. Move right onto the arete and climb to below the headwall. Here, either step left into the groove or pull through direct (crux). Now move right again into the overhanging groove and up to the anchors.
Andrew Whitmore, Martyn Owen, David Hood, 3 April 2002
Route Rustlers 25 25m
2.01
9bolts
Cliff Ellery, 15 September 2001
Morning Glory 27 20m
3
7bolts
Glorious. Climb the groove and right arete to half height – with crux sequences between the third and fourth bolts. There's strenuous bridging in the upper groove, then make a break for the steep finish on big holds.
Cliff Ellery, 7 February 2002
Drop Me in the Water 25 25m
2.01
8bolts
Bridge up the groove to the small roof, then move right over the roof and onto the face. Sustained technical climbing for the next 15m to a small ledge and no hands rest. Another difficult move gets you established under the roof out right, and from here move back left up to the belay.
Cliff Ellery, Richard Knott, 4 November 2001
Man Overboard 26 10m
0
4bolts
Martyn Owen, June 2004
All Above Board 23,23 30m
3
11bolts
Tricky to start and tricky to finish. Climb the corner to the third bolt then traverse left onto the belay ledge.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12310m4No
 

Tricky to start and tricky to finish. Climb the corner to the third bolt then traverse left onto the belay ledge.

22320m7No
 

A hard start moving left and through the small overhang into the groove is followed by excellent climbing all the way to the top.

Andrew Whitmore, Martyn Owen, 26 June 2004
Wet Under Foot 25 28m
2.01
12bolts
Cliff Ellery, Kevin Barratt, 4 October 2003
Checkmate 26 28m
2.01
10bolts
Cliff Ellery, 10 December 2004
Daylight Robbery 25 30m
1.02
11bolts
Martyn Owen, Andrew Whitmore, Sam Bird, 21 November 2003
Attribution: 
www.freeclimb.co.nz. Hosted by and written By Cliff Ellery

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UUID: 
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