Castle Rock (Motutere)

(18 routes)

Place info

Castle Rock (Motutere)

(18 routes)

ACCESS IS CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE

  • Just off the 309 Road
  • Huge potential – world class quality
  • Long routes
  • Fab views
  • All sport climbing
  • Hip and thigh toning approach!

Castle Rock has nice long bolted climbing on beautifully solid rock, but before hurling yourself into this take more care than I would – serious trouble here is easy to come by. The first time I climbed at Castle Rock my climbing partner and I behaved like complete cowboys, excitedly rapping off any bolts we saw at the tops of the cliffs. That was one of the many top anchors to non-existent climbs at Castle Rock that we rapped down. We also rapped down a traversing line, the top pitch of an unfinished 5-pitch climb, and couldn't pull the ropes down... oops... blah, blah, blah.... my point being... it was fun... just be prepared for something different from anywhere else in the North Island. A big hug and rainbow coloured flowers to all the developers of Castle Rock – it's a steep walk to take a drill, etc – you're awesome!

New routes

New developers please use only stainless steel hardware for new routes. Please try to hide your bolts and consider where your route starts and tops out. Climbers have already added significantly to the erosion at the tops. It's also good practice to keep low profile.

Gear

To date all the routes except 1 are bolted, and you will need about 15 quick draws minimum to attempt most routes. It is strongly advised that you take two 60 metre ropes, these are big cliffs and a lot of the abseil are over 50m. Don’t forget to tie knots in the ends of your ropes, and extend your runners..

  • South East

    Aspect

  • 25–40 min

    Walk in

  • 525m

    Altitude

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
South East
Altitude: 
525m

ACCESS IS CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE

  • Just off the 309 Road
  • Huge potential – world class quality
  • Long routes
  • Fab views
  • All sport climbing
  • Hip and thigh toning approach!

Castle Rock has nice long bolted climbing on beautifully solid rock, but before hurling yourself into this take more care than I would – serious trouble here is easy to come by. The first time I climbed at Castle Rock my climbing partner and I behaved like complete cowboys, excitedly rapping off any bolts we saw at the tops of the cliffs. That was one of the many top anchors to non-existent climbs at Castle Rock that we rapped down. We also rapped down a traversing line, the top pitch of an unfinished 5-pitch climb, and couldn't pull the ropes down... oops... blah, blah, blah.... my point being... it was fun... just be prepared for something different from anywhere else in the North Island. A big hug and rainbow coloured flowers to all the developers of Castle Rock – it's a steep walk to take a drill, etc – you're awesome!

New routes

New developers please use only stainless steel hardware for new routes. Please try to hide your bolts and consider where your route starts and tops out. Climbers have already added significantly to the erosion at the tops. It's also good practice to keep low profile.

Gear

To date all the routes except 1 are bolted, and you will need about 15 quick draws minimum to attempt most routes. It is strongly advised that you take two 60 metre ropes, these are big cliffs and a lot of the abseil are over 50m. Don’t forget to tie knots in the ends of your ropes, and extend your runners..

Access: 

ACCESS IS CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE

Walk time: 
25–40 min
NZMS260: 
T11 391 854
Topo50: 
BA35 286 239
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
14
0
 

The Rock spike by the Carpark

Near the car-park, you can see it from the car-park, the pillar. It's got an interesting approach I hear. Close, but not so close. I also hear it's about grade 10-14 and a few bolts. Any more information you'll just have to bash off to find the thing.
Attribution: 
www.freeclimb.co.nz. Hosted by Cliff Ellery, Written by Rachael Mayne.
This place appears in: 
freeclimb.co.nz

Places

Actions
Wall Kookmeyers (10 routes)
Wall Budda Wall (4 routes)
Wall Quiet Earth Wall (3 routes)

Comments

Comments

Looking to climb in this area Sept. 10th and needing a partner. Message me if you are headed there

Could we mark this crag as closed and take down the route descriptions for now.

This site is a beta version.