Southern Bluffs

(4 routes)

These cliffs are to the south of the car park, towards the Whangaehu valley.

South East
Walk time: 
20–40 min
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Camp 2015 16 20m
wire representing trad
On a small outlier buttress to the north of the French pillars. Passes through a couple of overhangs with some good exposure. Belay on gear. Walk off by scrambling up and to the right.
Don French, Jozef Crosland, Helen Chapman, 5 January 2015
Right French Pillar 15,15,15 60m
wire representing trad
Climbs the rock to the right of the "Pilier Français" arete.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad

Climb on good holds with good protection. The rock is fascinating. It looks loose, but you find it’s exceptionally solid and takes gear well. Belay before it steepens.


Continue to climb directly up, finally joining the arete truely. Belay just before the final section. Can belay here or finish it off.


After a step, scramble to a good belay. Exit by traversing north and descending easier ground north of "Camp 2015".

Don French, Helen Chapman 3/1/2015
Splish Splash 16 26m
5bolts wire representing trad 2
Up the wide corner system 5m right of the waterfall. Starts up the flinty-looking slab, going straight up or angling in from the right. Then into the clean left facing corner for a few moves, then stepping right into the main corner system and heading straight up. 5 bolts plus a couple of trad placements - medium wires and cams handy. Take a long sling for a belay bollard a few metres back from the top.
Tom Wilson, Simon Williamson, May 2015
Choss Corner 15 20m
wire representing trad
About 50m right of Splish Splash, attack the loose looking weakness. Good placements all the way and the rock is a lot better than it looks. Belay off large boulders at the top.
Eric Duggan, 11 April 2015