Upper Tier

(11 routes)

This is the shorter and more fused wall which you encounter first.

Type: 
Wall
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 The Spider 25 10m
1.02
5bolts
Starts from the monster double-hand undercling. Climb the immaculate line of holds coming out the horizontal arête using toe-hooks, compression and whatever other tricks you can come up with. One trick is to climb the crack above the bolts rather than the holds below, which makes it significantly easier and much less pleasant.
John Palmer, 2009
2 Infinite Monkey Theorem 27 12m
1.02
6bolts
Now climb The Spider the way it was meant to be climbed. At the end of the horizontal arete, swing under the roof then muscle right on underclings to a huge jug at the base of the hanging slab. Climb up the corner to the single ring anchor (and back jump to clean).
John Palmer, 2013
3 Mansard Roof 29 15m
0
9bolts
Start from the same point as The Spider but head right towards the hanging groove. Desperately strange moves lead you to the monster hanging tongue, The climbing from here is easier but of outstanding quality. Finish around the corner and up the headwall as per the next route.
Regan McCaffery, 2012 (Equipped by Tom Hoyle)
4 Crag Vultures 30 15m
2.01
7bolts
Start in the fractured rock in the back of the overhang. From some large jugs, a boulder problem on underclings leads to a monster rest and then some thuggy climbing through to the obvious jugs. Finish up the headwall (there is only one ring anchor as back-jumping to clean is mandatory).
Regan McCaffery, 2012
5 Them Crooked Vultures 28 15m
2.01
8bolts
Start as for Crag Vultures. From the monster rest, cut right to join the next route via some big pulls on great holds. Link-up climbing at its best.
James Field-Mitchell, 2013
6 Immortal Technique 32 10m
2.01
7bolts
Starts up Coriolis Effect and then goes up and left through a very hard looking section of blank wall.
Wiz Fineron, 2013
7 The Coriolis Effect 28 10m
2.01
7bolts
Steep, athletic and quite sustained. A superb opening sequence leads to a move right to a vague rest. From here climb through steep and ever more blank terrain to the crux (which has two distinct methods), then up through the blocks to an anchor above. This route was bolted by Peter Allison using someone else’s bolts, it was then dogged by the masses and climbed without permission by James Field-Mitchell. Rumour has it that another climber reached the anchor before James, also without permission.
James Field-Mitchell, 2011
8 Civil Unrest 29 12m
0
8bolts
Climbs as per The Coriolis Effect but after the crux it breaks back left along a rail of holds below the lip and then out.
Craig Houston, 2013
9 First Breath After A Coma 29 12m
3
8bolts
Probably the best line of this middle section of wall, the great steep climbing only let down by the perma-wet first hold. Start as per Krakatoa but instead of climbing straight up head up and left via a series of big moves to join and finish up Civil Unrest.
James Field-Mitchell, 2012
10 Retaillack 28 12m
2.01
8bolts
The first line bolted on this section of wall, and nearly the last one to be climbed. start as for First Breath After A Coma, join and then finish up The Coriolis Effect. nobody, including Kristen, has any idea what the name means.
Kristen Foley, 2012
11 Krakatoa 25 10m
1.02
6bolts
Start on the wet undercling and make a couple of long pulls to reach the large ‘meat wrap’ feature. From here there are a couple of tricky moves leading right and then up the groove. The top of the groove is quite often wet, but it is still possible to climb the route.
Kristen Foley, 2012
UUID: 
a0281b15-6b48-4d9b-89f3-3883a2b272cc