Wall of Sound

(14 routes)

The smooth andesite walls of this crag offer the connoisseur of technical, sequence-based climbing the promise of a rewarding day at the crag, in a wild mountain location. The wall was discovered on an expedition by Kristen Foley, John Palmer and Dan Pringle in the late summer of 2010. Routes began springing up immediately as the Wellingtonians were keen to have more quality route climbing closer to home. Although the routes are all bolted, this is definitely not a consumer crag. But some will find the extreme and isolated location only adds to the experience.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
1560m
Aspect: 
North
Walk time: 
15 min
Access: 

From the Tukino Alpine Sports Club lodge, walk south-east down the ridgeline below the hut. After 10 minutes or so the cliff should be visible down to your right, in the valley and across the Whangaehu River. Drift right down the slope into the gorge and cross the river with caution above the waterfall. From here, follow a spine of rock down to where it leads below the cliff.

Lat/Lon: 
-39.284091000000, 175.618043000000
NZMS260: 
T20 359 101
Topo50: 
BJ34 258 484
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
1 Himawari 23 14m
1.02
7bolts
Start below the roof and climb slightly right over the lip and up the face above. Once you've reached the corner stay left and charge up the blank-looking face via a tricky finishing crux sequence. If the start is wet, starting up Komakino is a good option and doesn't change the grade.
Equipped by Dave Kopp, first ascent John Palmer, 2011
2 Komakino 23 14m
2.01
8bolts
A brilliant route, robbed of its third star only by the loose rock around the opening section. Start up the corner below the large roof and drift left on the polished face and avoiding going too high to the loose rock. Then head up the arête via superlative technical climbing. For the full value experience stay on the arête all the way.
John Palmer, 2011
3 Harakiri 22 13m
1.02
7bolts
Start as per Komakino, but at the fourth bolt climb right to the groove and then stem your way to the anchor.
Equipped by Dan Pringle, first ascent Tom Hoyle, 2012
4 Fire on the Mountain 19 17m
0
7bolts
Kristen Foley, 2011
5 Route de la Slack 23 20m
2.01
10bolts
Steep and pumpy.
John Palmer, 2011
6 How Soon Is Now? 24 20m
0
8bolts
Equipped by Kristen Foley, first ascent John Palmer, 2013
7 Ritual de la Habitual 23 20m
2.01
8bolts
Tom Hoyle, 2012
8 Bloc Party 26 12m
0
6bolts
John Palmer, 2012
9 Shoegaze 27 22m
2.01
Tom Hoyle
10 File Under Easy Listening 24 22m
2.01
9bolts
Long and devious.
John Palmer, 2011
11 Copper Blue 26 17m
0
6bolts
John Palmer, 2012
12 The Jean-Paul Satre Experience 28 18m
3
7bolts
An immaculate just-enough-holds hanging arête.
John Palmer, 2012
13 Bleeding Star 27 17m
2.01
6bolts
John Palmer, 2012
Pump up the Jam 18
0

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