Marg Arete

Type: 
Rock
Description: 
This route is an ideal family outing being of low difficulty and relatively unexposed. It is about 5 full pitches or a large number of shorter pitches. THere is plenty of scope for natural protection, but there are areas that are not protected. The rock is excellent quality. This arete climb starts low down and on the south side of the the stream draining Margaret Landing. Descending into the base using the natural walking line that traverses from the TASCMaster wall. It is a low arete, almost a fin of rock, that climbs high into the Margarets landing basin. It terminates on top of a small pinnacle at the southern side of the head wall of the Margaret's Leap circ.
Reference: 
0
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1740mYes
 

Start just left of the waterfall. Up slabs tending right to the crest, then follow

2740mNo
 

Continue to follow arete to "pass" the gives you good access to "Master Angus Wall"

3740mNo
 

A little steeper now on cleaner rock. You have a chevel option, or just traverse on leges to the south.

4740mNo
 

Continue on the arete. Exposure increases slightly. Pitch finishes at the notch before the final pinnacle

5730mNo
 

Choose your route through the steep exit wall of the notch dependent upon your skills. Follow the rib upto the top of the pinnacle.

60mNo
 

Descent can be done by abseil of the top to the pinnacle on the uphill side (or to the north if you want a bigger abseil). Can scramble down easily enough. Best descent down the mountain is on the broken ground/slabs to the north or the arete.

Grade: 
7 ,7 ,7 ,7 ,7 ,
Quality: 
2.01
Gone: 
0
Length: 
190m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
1
Ascent: 
David Garrity (solo)
Route Image: 
UUID: 
daa6eff0-d1c1-4ffb-84fa-c884a5517bb9