Wake Up Call

Type: 
Alpine
Reference: 
8
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
13II200mNo
 An excellent mixed route on the central buttress of the South East Face. Five pitches.
Grade: 
II 3
Quality: 
1.02
Gone: 
0
Length: 
200m
Natural pro: 
0
Ascent: 
Travis Holman and Graham Johnson, September 2008

Comments

this is a fantastic route - Actually 5 pitches. the first pitch is thin and mixed (M2 or so... easy but thin) to a good belay. The next pitch (the best of the route) goes directly right from the belay to gain the entrance to a WI3 couloir/corner. 40m of WI3 - the best on ruapehu - to a snowfield- belay on the crest. This is a rope stretcher, you may need to belay lower down if using a 50m rope. There is a walk-off option here, and the route really isn't that great after this. The next two pitches wind up some moderate snow slopes (45-60 degrees) to the base of a headwall. We went straight up (thin pro, very little ice) and then traversed right around a corner to gain the summit. In better snow years it may be possible to continue straight up. The first ascent was in september 2008 and the ice couloir was FAT. I would imagine that this route comes in early and stays late. Classic. Go do it.

Thanks Graham! Corrected a few things in main description.