|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
Start by a free-standing blade of rock at the right end of the lower overhangs. Climb the crack which snakes through these overhangs at their weakest point, and begin traversing left at the first opportunity. Traverse about 15m, almost horizontally, to a stance just below a small overhang to the left of the grey slab. This is Gnomes Cavern.
Continue the traverse, which now rises slightly to the base of a heavily vegetated groove. Climb this for a few metres, then hand traverse left and up past tussock bushes to Hobbits Hole. The first two pitches can be combined with a 50m rope at grade 16.
Traverse rightwards across a clean wall to a groove. Climb this groove and at the top move right into a bottomless chimney. Struggle up this to a grassy stance.
Straight up the heavily vegetated crack above.
A serious route that picks its way through the highest, steepest section of the wall. Those who are tempted by its airy position and variety of moves will also require some ability on vertical vegetation.
16 ,16 ,18 ,14
Ray Button, Graeme Dingle, 27 March 1976 (rest eliminated by Fred From and Stu Allan in 1978)