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Climb the left-tending slab to the overhang. Pull over the overlap and employ a range of techniques in the corner until it’s possible to traverse out to the left edge. Climb the crack on the edge, and then a short, steep wall to reach a ledge. This ledge heads around to the left – it’s easy but exposed climbing – then move up to a good stance at a large belay spike.
Climb up and on to the spike, and step left across a bottomless groove to gain access to a steep crack. Strenuous moves take you up the crack to a ledge. Step left, and move up slabs until a mantleshelf and step right can be made to a good belay stance.
An excellent climb: steep and varied. This route tackles the gently overhanging wall right of the main corner, where the crag begins tapering off.
Graeme Dingle, Colin Abbott, 1973 (aid moves on pitch 2 eliminated by Stu Allan and Pete Giles, March 1978)