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Could this be as good as it sounds? Has anyone ever been back to find out? In the middle of the cliff is a crack (read watercourse) leading up and over scrub and mud to a gully at the top. From the crack climb out right before traversing back to the crack to climb over the lip (crux) into the gully above. Either belay or continue up to a spike out left in the tussock.
Rick McGregor, Len Gillman, Jim Bougher, 18 May 1974