Warwicks Traverse

Type: 
Rock
Reference: 
6.04
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11180mNo
 

Travel to the bottom of Warwicks Castle. Approach from the AMC via the ridge leading to Sunnyside Wall or descend from Warwicks Col following the South Face.
From the eastern-most edge—the lowest point: move 10m to the north and begin ascending steep moss and tussock ledges. Keeping near the edge. (watch for holes and loose boulders), ascend the ridge to gain the wide-open moss field. Central in this area are two large rocks wich could offer a nice lunch or camping spot.
Continue along the narrowing ridge to where the spine becomes jagged and rocky, move along the top of the rocks and descend slightly to the top of El Cap Groove. Sidle along to the southern side of the ridge until it widens out at the top of sunrise. Abseil off here or continue: move along the ridge for 5m past the abseil chain then descend the north side for 3m and squeeze between two large rocks. Step along the blocks and finish with a layback to the south and down the moss slopes. Climbing the last part in reverse to the belay chain provides quick access to the top of Warwicks Castle.

Grade: 
11
Quality: 
1.02
Gone: 
0
Length: 
80m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
0
Attribution: 
Eden, Ross. Taranaki Mount Egmont; A guide for climbers. NZAC, 2003.
UUID: 
91c1668a-04ea-46d8-8d03-93d76af65b60