West Ridge via Hughsons Ledge

Type: 
Alpine
Reference: 
5.02
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11+0mNo
 

From Kahui Hut descend Kahui Track for approximately 100m and then descend into the Okahu River. Follow the river to Maru on the north and Skeets Slide to the south, below the completely eroded Pakihere Pa.
Climb the southern slopes to gain a long, narrow, sloping terrace, Hughsons Ledge, which breaks the main cliff of West Ridge at 1500m. Carefully negotiate a slip face near the top of the ledge and proceed up the slope to the shoulder of West Ridge at 2200m. A distinct point is formed at the junction of West and Bobs Ridges and from here one can descend into the Okahu Gorge and follow the valley to the crater or continue up the West Ridge. A short distance up from the base of the bluffs at 2300m a ledge provides an interesting access into the top of Okahu Gorge. The more adventurous can ascend the bluffs above. When topping out on the crater rim 2440m, continue towards Sharks Tooth to find a suitable descent into the crater.
Descent: Return down the Okahu Gorge and track from Black Rock.
‡ While the route description was the original route for access to Hughsons Ledge, it is far quicker to follow the Okahu Gorge route and traverse the moss slopes to ascend a gully adjacent to a spring at approximately 1730m.

Grade: 
1+
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
0m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
0
UUID: 
826a0891-1cab-4546-8ad1-718ac4bfd860