East Ridge and Sharks Tooth

Type: 
Alpine
Reference: 
2.04
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12+0mNo
 

Grade 2+ (On ice only)
East Ridge is an excellent summer or winter route and is easily discernible from the main highway descending due east from the Sharks Tooth. In summer it offers good rock underfoot and in winter, variable ice.
From Manganui Lodge follow the T-bar and then the rope tow. In winter ascend to the left of the Policeman, 1876m, to the base of East Ridge. In summer, from near the top of the rope tow, traverse north and ascend to the right of the Policeman to gain East Ridge.
Once on the ridge, follow the crest with increasing exposure to a steepening (crux) at approximately 2200m. Continue climbing to the top of Sharks Tooth (2510m).
Descend due north 60m along the arête from Sharks Tooth to a ‘chimney’, marked by wire and old steel standards, descend the chimney into the crater. In winter the chimney may be blocked. If this is the case continue north along the ridge and by dropping down the East Face for a few metres should reveal a small series of ‘steps’ onto the top of Surrey Road route.
Descent: Either down the easier North Ridge route or more directly; climb the chimney from the crater and descend directly below, moving south-east across the East Face, returning to East Ridge below the crux. Cross the ridge above the Policeman, 1876m, to the flanks above the ski field and descend slopes to the ski-field.
‡ At the base of the crux, at 2200m, a short flattening of the ridge occurs and a small step in the bluff line is passable in winter. Carefully traverse to the south and gain the easier slopes above the crux of Teds Alley. This alternative avoids the more icy conditions found at both cruxes but, does involve an airy traverse.
Times: Stratford Plateau – Manganui Lodge 30min. Manganui Lodge – Policeman 1.5hr. Policeman – Crux 1.5hr. Crux – Sharks Tooth 1hr. Total: 4hr, 30min.

Grade: 
2+
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
0m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
0
UUID: 
79d342ad-3717-464e-8976-c43fadb9d29f