South Face

Type: 
Alpine
Reference: 
1.01
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11-0mNo
 

The climb of Taranaki/Mt Egmont from Dawson Falls, via Fanthams Peak is a pleasant summer climb although it involves tedious scoria slopes. In winter it can prove to be icy.
The route leaves Dawson Falls on the Summit Track just above the Visitor Centre at 905m. The track climbs up past Hooker Shelter to the junction to Kapuni Lodge at 1365m and at 1460m passes the junction to the Upper Lake Dive track. Continue climbing on snow/scoria above the steps following the poled route over the Knoll 1675m and from there the route follows up the scoria to a small ridge just before a rocky outcrop on the skyline (Copestone).
Here the track splits, Fanthams Peak and Syme Hut 1960m, is straight on up past Copestone, the route to the hut is poled across Fanthams Peak and is 10 minutes from the junction. The route to the right heading north above the head of the Kapuni Gorge circumvents Fanthams Peak and Syme Hut and contours onto Rangitoto Flat.
From Rangitoto Flat the route is unpoled and continues north directly up the main face to the South Entrance, a low point in the crater rim just west of Mackay Rocks. Terrain is scoria, while winter can produce varied snow and ice conditions, often with extensive rime. From South Entrance the summit dome lies to the north and a number of routes can be used to access the summit at 2518m. The most popular is opposite the Sharks Tooth but the south face of the dome and the rocky outcrop to the west (The Sisters) can provide interesting ice routes in winter.
Descent: If returning to Syme Hut is the same, descent from Fanthams Peak is generally via the Kaupokonui Bowl just to the south of the Knoll. The descent of both the main peak to Syme Hut and the upper part of Fanthams Peak can be tedious with rimed snow conditions in winter and is not to be underestimated. Route finding across Rangitoto Flat and Fanthams Peak can be tedious in whiteout conditions.
Times: Dawson Falls to Kapuni Lodge Junction – 1 hour, 15 minutes. Kapuni Lodge Junction to Fanthams Peak – 1 hour, 30 minutes. Fanthams Peak to Summit – 1 hour, 30 minutes. Total 4 hours, 15 minutes.

Grade: 
1-
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
0m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
0
UUID: 
ff4c1419-d67f-43aa-86d8-637aba30c9ab