The Eiger, Main Wall

(17 routes)

This was named after the Little Eiger since its left hand end is the corner with that crag. The Eiger Wall is the opposite side of the valley from the Organ Pipes.
The main problem with climbing this wall is the lack of good belay points at the top. You may have to go up to 20m to find a decent boulder to use, so allow for that in your rope management.

Ice Climbing.
Many of the vegetated grooves form good looking icy grooves in a good winter, many must have been climbed.

Type: 
Wall
Altitude: 
1500m
Aspect: 
North West
Access: 

To descend one can go to the top of the Little Eiger and follow the descent route given for that crag. Alternatively follow the ridge up to the end of the wall. It is also possible to carefully back-climb the broken mossy section on the wall.

Lat/Lon: 
-39.294720000000, 174.082317000000
NZMS260: 
P20 034 117
Topo50: 
BJ29 933 500
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
1 To the Batpole 21 30m
2.01
wire representing trad
Scramble up to the base of the smooth wall. Climb the obvious finger crack to a well-worn belay bollard or carry on up for another 15m or so over easy broken ground.
Chris Morris & Neil Parker, 1985
2 Jaded 21 30m
1.02
wire representing trad
Thin seam immediately right of 'To the Batpole'
Lionel Clay, 1987
5 Revenge Of the Sperm Whale 16 40m
0
wire representing trad
Obvious jam crack in the face left of the Summer Garden. Climb vee grooves through to top. Good belay around spike.
John Edwards, Pete Swanson, 27/01/83.
6 Summer Garden 16 40m
1.02
wire representing trad
This is the most obvious route on this wall. The upper portion is a narrow chimney. Climb the crack to the groove, into the chimney and out the top. A good long route for its grade.
Kevin Conaglen, Stuart Skene, Andy Harris, 01/81.
7 Propergander 26 35m
0
wire representing trad 2
The obvious (if a guide book editor had $1 for every time a route description included the seven-letter ‘o’ word…) clean off-width on the lower section of the Eiger Wall. Classic jamming with hard hand stacks and knee locks. Friends #5 and 6 needed.
Warwick Humphries, 29/03/87.
8 Pills & Thrills 17 40m
2.01
wire representing trad
Start with a layback and finish with excellent bridging.
Glen Aspin, Dave Bolger.
9 Four-Star Day Dream 19 40m
2.01
wire representing trad
Crux at the start of the first crack and painless jamming.
Lionel Clay, 23/03/86.
10 The Peppermint Pig 16 40m
0
wire representing trad
Crack to the right of Four-Star Day Dream. The crux is the overhang at about 10m from the bottom. Climb the crack direct to a mossy and slippery exit. A good climb at its grade—pity about the exit.
Lionel Clay, Richard Kirk, 06/04/85.
11 Dirty Mary 16 40m
0
wire representing trad
A wide crack in a gentle left facing corner some 10 to 15m up valley from the previous route. Climb the crack passing the overhanging block on the right. Beware of a mossy finish.
Stuart Skene, Kevin Conaglen, 01/81.
12 Wolverine 22 40m
3
wire representing trad
Two cracks to the right of Dirty Mary. Climbed in two pitches but could be done as one. 1) Technical crack climbing and bridging. 2) Steep crack with strenuous layback. Take samll wires and cams. Sustained.
Dave Bolger, Glen Aspin.
13 Finger Pops 20 38m
2.01
wire representing trad
10 meters to the right of Dirty Mary. A clean reddish face with twin cracks provides superb finger locks and excellent pro.
Dave Bolger, Glen Aspin, 19/03/01.
14 Redundancy Craic 19 40m
0
wire representing trad
Open-book finger crack 10m right of Finger Pops. Climb to top of pedestal then up cracks to top.
Glen Aspin, Dave Bolger (alt.).
15 Hangover 19 20m
0
wire representing trad
The following three climbs are also claimed by the Conaglen, Drew, Prudden, Young party, and the lines are claimed to have topped-out at the top of the cliff rather than on the Traverse of the Gods.
Ross Eden, Nick Hight, 01/00.
16 Dry Horrors 18 20m
0
wire representing trad
A delicate face climb 3m along from Hangover.
Nick Hight, Ross Eden, 01/00.
17 Cold Turkey 14 12m
0
wire representing trad
A blocky climb up to the ledge Traverse of the Gods.
Ross Eden, Nick Hight, 12/99.
17 Traverse of the Gods 6
0
wire representing trad
A seemingly wide ledge bisecting the upper part of Eiger Wall. A 1.5m gap near the left hand end tests ones courage, as you are forced to step across onto some sloping blocks. Exit up the moss and blocks to the end of Crocodile Tier.
Not Quite the Traverse of the Gods WI3
0
At the upper end of the Eiger Wall, an obvious break named in the rock section as Traverse of the Gods cuts across the crag from bottom right to top left. This ledge gives an entertaining excursion under snow and ice, with loads of runners available.