The crack that wasn't

Type: 
Rock
Description: 
The route goes up the middle of the main wall and starts up low angle slabs between two shallow caves, directly beneath the long fist crack on the upper headwall. Descent: An easy but exposed traverse out to the right leads to the first scree field (Bluffed out). Cross the low ridge to the second scree field and descend the steep gully/gorge on the far end which spits you out at the south side of Okahu Bluff. Descent is best done at night with one head torch between 4.
Reference: 
2
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11825mYes
 

A reachy move gets you off the slabs and established on the lower headwall (Crux). Blast up through the easy crack and ledge system until you reach the belay ledge right below an overhanging groove which grants you access to the ledge under the fist crack.

21715mYes
 

Climb the overhanging groove to the ledge above. You are now beneath the imposing widening hand crack, which once thorougly de-mossed will most likely be a classic line. Until then, be sensible and traverse out left to the party ledge with large boulders and climb up the short hand crack directly above the large sharp flake, do not fall. Arange a belay on the mossy sloping ledge.

318A125mYes
 

A fine pitch! Climb up the chimney with twin grooves, past the pile of chock-stones and aid the overhanging finger crack which would probably go free at about 24. Finish up the runout but easy slabs to arrange a semi-hanging belay in one of the cracks.

418A030mYes
 

Climb out to the right (Crux) and follow the line of least resistance up the gradually less steep upper headwall until you can sling a large boulder to arrange a belay.

Grade: 
18 ,17 ,18 A1,18 A0
Quality: 
1.02
Gone: 
0
Length: 
95m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
1
Ascent: 
Gregor Kolbe, Helen Liley, Max McQuillan, Jason Horrocks 26/04/14
Route Image: 
UUID: 
2604562f-2b24-4ab4-aa32-761715dd82b3