Large area of low angle rock, around 30m high.
The story behind Paradise: In mid 2014 Neil Silverwood and Neil Warrington applied for funding from Sport NZ. Every second year grants are given out to New Zealanders doing innovative adventures around the globe. Perhaps due to a serious lack of applications Sport NZ awarded the pair a grant for route development at Bullock Creek. Warrington and Silverwood had promised to put up 30 routes in 30 days, complete a guide book, and name their first born 'Sport NZ'.
Paradise Bivy was used as advanced base camp and almost all the routes at this crag were created during January 2015. Exhaustion, rain and frustration with living in the dirt slowed progress to a crawl and by half way through the month they only had 10 climbs completed.
A post on social media promising free bolts, food and a can of double brown brought in reinforcements in the form of a few more keen route developers. On day 29 of the trip the 30th climb went up. The final tally for the month was 33 new climbs (37 pitches).
Park at 1.9km down Bullock Creek Road from SH6 on one of the several grassy parking spots on the right-hand side. Walk 60m further along the road from the last parking spot looking for a marked track leading down to the creek. Cross the creek and follow the trail uphill for 20 minutes before turning upriver underneath the cliffs.
Access to the Cuckoo's Nest, is by following the trail to the White Wall of Goodness and turn right after the steep slope. Scramble up a tape handline.
Follow the goat trail along, dipping back into the bush occasionally to a spacious bivy cave.
The Climbs from " Little Timmy the Guzzberry" to " Just Another Day" are accessed up the grassy slope just left out of the bivy.
Places
| Type | Name |
|---|---|
| Sector | White Wall of Goodness |
| Sector | Paradise (right) |
| Sector | Kiki Corner |
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Every Tear a Waterfall | 20 | 18m | 7 |
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| 2 | A Quarter to Sunshine | 19 | 22m | 10 |
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| 3 | One Flew over the Cuckoo's Nest | 22 | 22m | 7 |
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| 4 | Chocolate X's | 17 | 23m | 9 |
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| 5 | Little Timmy the Guzzberry | 19 | 20m | 7 |
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| 6 | Black Coffee | 19 | 42m | 8 |
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| 7 | Bent | 18 | 13m | 5 |
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| 8 | Meanderthal | 18 | 20m | 8 |
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| 9 | Famous People Aren't so Famous | 23 | 28m | 11 |
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| 10 | Assisted Suicide | 19 | 30m |  |
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| 11 | Just Another Day | 22 | 22m | 9 |
Images
