Place info

Matai Wall

(9 routes)

The main wall.

  • South East

    Aspect

Type: 
Face
Aspect: 
South East

The main wall.

Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
BTB
24
1.02
12m
5X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
  Starts below the other routes on this wall and finishes at DBA on shelf. The crux is the top section, which goes right from the jugs below last bolt. The left-hand finish is good too, and makes the climb grade 22.

Equippers: Kester Brown, David Liu, Peter O'Neill. FA: David Liu

P
21
0
  Left most bolted line off main shelf at base of wall. Cool moves on great rock. The climb was "Born In A Storm" as Peter O'Neill puts it.

FFA Jimmy Finlayson Equip: Peter O'Neill

PV
19
3
12m
7X bolts
  DBA. Difficult finish First Bolted route to the Left of the Chimney. This climb is a 'must do' with nicely featured rock. A little pumpy. (PV)

Pete O'Neill FFA 22 March 2015

W
20
1.02
  The crack on right side of wall and just left of chimney with a couple bolts when the crack runs out.

Equipper: Peter O'Neill. FA: Kester Brown

16
0
11m
Natural gear required
1
  Crack inside and on the left wall of Bluff's Big Chimney, also uses the arete, but you're not allowed to use the opposite side of the chimney.

Pete O'Neill October 2014 FFA

BBC
16
0
10m
Natural gear required
  DBA. Climb to the right of Cracker Jack inside the chimney. No use of the back wall otherwise your climbing a grade 12.

Pete O'Neill FFA March 2014

17
0
7m
2X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
  DBA. Big Blocks beside or part of the 'off-width' 10mtrs below the Matai wall.

Dave Reese 23 March 2015

16
0
8m
3X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
 

The slab to the right of BBC. Clip the first bolt before starting to avoid taking your belayer with you on a unplanned trip to the sea. Uses the slab only, not the face on the right - that's another climb! Enjoy the view of the sea as the ground slopes away as you climb...
DBA at top.

FFA Emily Jagoutz (October 2nd 2016) Equipper: Aran Jagoutz

13
0
8m
3X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
 

The slab to the right of BBC, uses the wall on the right too. Clip the first bolt before starting to avoid visiting the sea with your belayer. A good beginner's lead with just enough feeling of exposure. Finish in the same way as Foveaux Slab. DBA at top.

FFA Emily Jagoutz (October 2nd 2016) Equipper: Aran Jagoutz

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