Place info

Red Wall

(17 routes)

Directly below Telecom Tower, the Red Wall is a striking, steep, red coloured wall. Fridays Fool is classic ice line to left of Red Wall.

Type: 
Wall

Directly below Telecom Tower, the Red Wall is a striking, steep, red coloured wall. Fridays Fool is classic ice line to left of Red Wall.

Access: 

Along Queens Drive.

NZMS260: 
F41 795 633
Topo50: 
CC11 695 015
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
M6
0
60m
  ‘fairly run out’ direct start to the left of Fridays Fool, limited gear, thin ice made some sections possible, 'a couple of spots with a minimum 10m run out between gear.’

Allan Uren, Daniel Joll, August 2013

54
WI3 M4
0
200m
Natural gear required
One or more images in route detail.
 

The classic ice route of the face. The corner/gully to the left of the Red Wall. The first pitch is often thinly iced corner.
Four pitches. Conditions can vary dramatically depending on the amount of ice present, especially on the first two pitches. Has been soloed several times and can be done by a quick party in less than three hours car to car. Carry a single set of Camalots, wires & pitons with anywhere from one to five ice screws and smaller selection of slings. An absolute classic.

Steve Carr, Mark McCaughan, 1998

56
M5
0
80m
One or more images in route detail.
  Starts on Fridays Fool. From the base of the snow gully at the start of the third pitch head up the large obvious corner on the lefthand side. This is sustained for approximately 40m before the angle relents and 40m of easier ground leads to the ridge.

Steven Fortune, Daniel Joll, 2012

57
M4, M5
2.01
55m
Natural gear required
One or more images in route detail.
 

A corner leading into a large flake system just left of Book of Fools exiting Fridays Fool gully.

  1. Starts 10m left of book of Fools in snow gully section 2 pitches up Fridays Fool. Right facing corner 2 cracks left of book of fools corner.
  2. Up a thin pick seam to roof/corner/flake feature. Absolute stonker of a pitch.

S Fortune, P Harris, Aug 2017

55
M4
0
  Branches right during the third pitch and angles up onto the big ledge below the Telecom Tower, before traversing right again to finish up to the left of the Clearances (face).

Andy Macfarlane, Des Smith, 2000

50
0
 

Crack climbing up gully left of red wall until a ledge, then move right to a belay. Then three variations exist going at 16, 19, and 22 with a mix of bolts and traditional gear. All of the variations are unclimbed in winter.

Variation 1 (16): Dave Brash; Variation 2 (19): Steve Carr; Variation 3 (22): Andy Macfarlane.

46
M8
0
Natural gear required
1
  Follows a thin crack up the centre of the Red Wall on natural protection. Take gear from 00 Friend to #4 Camalot with small wires, no pitons are required now that the crack has been cleaned. Natural belay.

Daniel Joll, Jamie Vinton-Boot, 2011

48
M8, M6, M5, M5, M5, M4, M6
0
232m
1
 

The line has subsequently been extended by six additional pitches to now top out on the summit of the Telecom Tower.

  1. Pitch 1, M8, 25m.
  2. M6+, 12m. Short pitch up and right followng bolts to DBA.
  3. Pitch 3, M5, 40m. Up cracks to left of anchor, then corner to left of roof.
  4. Pitch 4, M5, 50m. Up crest
  5. Pitch 5, M5+, 35m. Up crest.
  6. Pitch 6, M4, 20m
  7. Pitch 7, M6, 50m From crest of ridge, traverse left on ledge and climb offwidth to left of tower.

Alex Corpas, Steven Fortune, Daniel Joll, 2012

49
0
 

The first ascent of the extended line (of Under Pressure extended) made use of some existing bolt runners and belays. However, there is still the potential to straighten out the line climbing on natural gear via variant 2nd, 3rd, and 4th pitches.

At top of the first pitch head right via an incredibly thin seam, will likely require R.U.R.Ps, micro wires and small knifeblades. Then continue up towards the larger crack and roof, following this to the top of the Red Wall. Avoid clipping the bolts or using the bolted anchor. From here continue upwards aiming for the overhanging hand crack. After this one long steep pitch should lead to the top of the Telecom towers.

The second pitch of this climb is likely to be one of the hardest natural mixed lines in the area and looks to be at around M9. At the top of the first pitch it is also possible to head up any of the Party Line variants, which will most likely range from M5-M7.

51
22
0
70m
5X bolts
Natural gear required
 

Follow line of bolts on left side of red wall to belay on roof. Joins last 3 bolts of Party Lines 3rd variation

Steve Carr, Simon Kennedy, 2000

52
20 M7
0
  2 pitches. The line finishes at the top of Red Wall and requires a 60m rappel to the ground. The crux is on the lower pitch and is followed by a nice M4 corner crack to some run out slab climbing, before veering left at the top of the crack to finish at Red Wall rappel station.

FFA: Dave Brash, Steve Carr, Andy MacFarlane, 2000.FWA: Jono Clarke, Daniel Joll, 2010.

53
15
0
30m
 

To right of Red Wall. Climb to comfy ledge beside left arete.

Dave Brash, Steve Carr 2000.

47
16
0
70m
  Starts out up the arête from the top of Romper Stomper.

Steve Carr, Andy MacFarlane, 2000

62
18 M5
0
200m
1
 

The classic 'V" groove to right of Red Wall. The first two pitches were initially climbed in winter at M5+. (Fastest Indian)
The route was finished to the top of the Telecom Tower in summer. (Indian Summer)
Classic climbing either way.

FWA, 1.5 pitches (Fastest Indian) Kester Brown, Jono Clark 20061st full ascent: (summer) Rupert Gardiner, Dave Bolger.

63
22
0
  A steep hand crack variation to the original line. Unclimbed in winter.

Reece Doyle

57
M4
0
  There are two good looking crack lines just left of Book of Fools which could be linked into from the top of the first pitch of the original line.
58
24 M8
0
  Left side of the face up 5m no gear then reach a good thin seam direct to top of buttress will be hard and scary at the start probably at 23-24 or M8.
Attribution: 
Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.
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