Place info

Broken Heart Wall

(7 routes)

With searing crack lines this is the bold and beautiful wall up South Wye valley. A mix of climbs on quality schist. The main 'Broken Heart' wall is sustained 20+ degrees overhanging.
Perhaps the hardest, most aesthetic crack line in the country (up the centre of the heart between the L & R Ventricles) still awaits an attempt. A bolted anchor is in place. The now bolted 'Drillfibrillator' is an open project (~ grade 29/30?) awaiting an attempt. More quality new-route sport potential awaits left of Left Ventricle. Right & Left Ventricles were climbed ground up. The Left Ventricle took multiple trips with multiple attempts whipping into space - eventually requiring some cleaning of the upper crack on abseil. It would be great to see the same ethos upheld for the central trad line.
A 70m single will get you back to ground on all the routes except the Left Ventricle (& possibly the central trad project?); half ropes are recommended for the trad lines. 50m half ropes would climb all lines.
Routes are currently described from climbers left to right. Photos to follow.

  • South West

    Aspect

  • 2-3hrs

    Walk in

New Zealand map
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South West

With searing crack lines this is the bold and beautiful wall up South Wye valley. A mix of climbs on quality schist. The main 'Broken Heart' wall is sustained 20+ degrees overhanging.
Perhaps the hardest, most aesthetic crack line in the country (up the centre of the heart between the L & R Ventricles) still awaits an attempt. A bolted anchor is in place. The now bolted 'Drillfibrillator' is an open project (~ grade 29/30?) awaiting an attempt. More quality new-route sport potential awaits left of Left Ventricle. Right & Left Ventricles were climbed ground up. The Left Ventricle took multiple trips with multiple attempts whipping into space - eventually requiring some cleaning of the upper crack on abseil. It would be great to see the same ethos upheld for the central trad line.
A 70m single will get you back to ground on all the routes except the Left Ventricle (& possibly the central trad project?); half ropes are recommended for the trad lines. 50m half ropes would climb all lines.
Routes are currently described from climbers left to right. Photos to follow.

Access: 

2 to 3 hrs hike from top car park. Follow South Wye creek on true left, up valley past the South Wye main wall & bivy, up to hanging valley beyond. Cross to true right of creek. Continue past the house size boulder with bolted route. Wall is obvious looking "broken heart" shape wall on true right of creek (climbers left). Bivy is large and spacious (comfortable 4-6 people), also on true right of creek, 5 mins prior to broken heart wall. Wall is approximately 45mins past South Wye main wall.
Mid-Late summer is the best season for climbing as the wall is at ~1000m, within the winter snowline and south-south west facing, taking time to dry after winter. But great on those baking hot summer days.

Walk time: 
2-3hrs
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
27
2.01
40m
Natural gear required
  This line is stronger and pumps harder than the Right. Climb the initial face, then up curving crack. Pass wide section then up thinner vertical crack which splits off main crack. Back to corner and to ledge. DBB.

Karl Schimanski, Keith Brown, 2013

3
Natural gear required
  The stunning crack line up the middle of the wall. Quality rock. Unattempted. Possibly the hardest trad line in the country? Awaiting ground up send!

YOURS?!

24
1.02
38m
Natural gear required
  Follow sustained crack to ledge. DBB.

Karl Schimanski, Daniel Joll, Keith Brown 2013

2.01
34m
  After multiple (3) bolting attempts where the drill apparently had a couple heart attacks - the last bolt has finally been placed and this route is now an OPEN PROJECT. DBB.

YOURS?!

25
1.02
32m
9X bolts
  Straight up face. Tricky onto slab, then listen to your heart beat. DBB.

Karl Schimanski, Keith Brown, Claudia Kranabitter, 2013

18
0
30m
2X bolts
Natural gear required
  Climb up past 2 bolts then veer left up corner crack to ledge. DBB.

Keith Brown, Karl Schimanski, 2013

23
1.02
18m
9X bolts
  Start as for coronary corner then traverse right and up steep face. DBB.

Keith Brown, Claudia Kranabitter, Karl Schimanski, 2013

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