Place info

Port Chalmers Quarry

(11 routes)

A collection of sport routes within the urban area of Port Chalmers. The crags are at the back of a small public garden/ park with a view of the port and the town. Just 10 minutes drive from the centre of Dunedin.

The Chakrata Wall and The Great Escape are protected by bolts of a trustworthy nature (all mid-late 2000s, by Dave Brash). Elevator and Ren, as well as the seperate Stimpy anchor were rebolted in September 2015 (Stimpy rebolting ASAP), but all routes climber's right of TGE are historical in nature, and may not be safely climbable without significant rebolting effort.

  • East

    Aspect

  • 3min

    Walk in

  • 60m

    Altitude

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
East
Altitude: 
60m

A collection of sport routes within the urban area of Port Chalmers. The crags are at the back of a small public garden/ park with a view of the port and the town. Just 10 minutes drive from the centre of Dunedin.

The Chakrata Wall and The Great Escape are protected by bolts of a trustworthy nature (all mid-late 2000s, by Dave Brash). Elevator and Ren, as well as the seperate Stimpy anchor were rebolted in September 2015 (Stimpy rebolting ASAP), but all routes climber's right of TGE are historical in nature, and may not be safely climbable without significant rebolting effort.

Access: 

Drive into Port Chalmers from Dunedin. Turn Left into Mount Street, then next right into Church St. Go NW along Chuch St, (approx 200m) past the railway crossing and look left to the remnants of a quarry "Lady Thorn Dell".

Walk time: 
3min
NZMS260: 
I44 249 856
Topo50: 
CE17 151 240
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
15
0
4X bolts
  3 or 4 beginner bolted leads approx grade 13 (left) to 15 (right).
Ev
23
1.02
9m
3X bolts
 

Scamble up R onto the Hauraki Wall.

A fingery classic. Climb trough to the bolts after a delicate mantle onto the thin ledge.

Andy McDonald 1992

Rn
25
0
8m
3X bolts
  Start well L with thin technical moves up through 2B, then traverse across to the 3rd B.

Andy McDonald 1992

Sy
19
0
8m
3X bolts
  Start as far L as you can and head gradually L through 3B, to step R again onto a ledge with a small tree. Climb through the crux into the crux into the rampabove without using the tree or the gully to the L. Contrived??

Andy McDonald 1992

GE
14 ,14 ,14
1.02
55m
20X bolts
 

This entertaining little multi pitch climb snakes its way up the cliff seaching out the best climbing to the apex of the quarry. Great beginner route with good views to the Port, the occasional wedding in the garden below, and out to the Peninsula.

Can be climbed at night with lights from the Port, and the route makes a good simul-climb. The first few metres of P1 can remain damp several days after rain during winter, but the rest of the route generally dries quickly.

Descent - 20m then 30m rap off DBB at top, then mid-station L of the top of P2. Or, scramble up 5m through the trees, hard L through the scrub to pick up a good (exposed) trail leading around the top of the quarry above the Chakrata Wall to the viewing platform.

  1. Start among the bush in the centre of the bowl. Traverse L along the ramp, negotiate a steep step, then R to a slab past a couple of bolts to bolt belay and tree stump.
  2. Climb up a steep arete, then hard L to DBB. Location of DBB on photo topo is about 4m too high.
  3. Step L and up through drill hole. Buckets recently chipped into this section to maintain grade consistency. Then tend L to steep headwall which is then turned on the R. Previously grade 18 A0 using side pull on large quarry-era drill hole.

Marcus Thomas 1996

LP
26
0
8m
3X bolts
  Looks impossible. Walk L behind large macrocarpa tree to far end of low overhanging wall. Crank through finger pocks to the arete above. Lokk for the secret hold out to the L to begin. The abilty to carry out one arm lock offs, is adventagous.

Andy McDonald 1992

EB
19
0
36m
6X bolts
  Start up groove near macrocarpa, then L side of the prominant arete. Clip 1st, 3rd & 4th bolts of JP.

Jeremy Strang 1987

JP
19
0
36m
4X bolts
  Climb the R side of the arete at its steepest point and move on up to the top of the arete. Manky bolts??

Jeremy Strang 1987

Vg
21
0
36m
4X bolts
  Climb up the drill hole L of the bolt and dyno for a hidden jug above the 2nd B. Then as for JP. Surrepititously climbed by Jeremy Strang before Simon did the 1st ascent.

Jeremy Strang 1987

RA
15
0
7m
2X bolts
  A small corner. DBB at top

Ross Cullen 1987

IE
16
0
7m
1X bolts
  Climb face onto arete R of RA.

Simon Cox 1987

Attribution: 
Dave Brash, Andy McDonald
This place appears in: 
Dunedin Rock
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