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Bolt City

Type

Interlaced with mainly bolted climbs on generally good quality rock, but blighted by lichen on less than vertical rock and lack of sunlight. Many climbers think ‘chainsaw’ when they contemplate the huge macrocarpa guarding the area.

Image
Aspect
South East
Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
2.5 Trash Talk 19 6
0
3 Pseudomania 21 15m 2
0
3.5 Capricious 25
0
4 Jeremy’s Route 24 13m 3
0
5 Labours of Love 24 15m 6
3
5.5 Bell Boy 23 6
1.02
6 Twenty Twenty 25 15m 7
2.01
7 Day of the Vijaks 21 30m
2.01
8 John Allen Corner 21 15m 1
0
9 Squeal Like a Pig 23 15m 3
1.02
9a Gracilis 24 6m 1
0
10 Acid Queen 23 12m 3
1.02
11 Bdoing ! 23 12m 1
0
12 The Hunger 23 15m 1
0
13 The Solitary Vice 25 15m 4
0
14 Murray 19 15m 4
0
15 Pearly Gates 19 30m 1
1.02
16 My Spine is the Baseline 23 30m 5
1.02
Comments
grubbie

Someone has recently (January 2000) anonymously destroyed the bolt by removing the hanger and bashing it flat. The following points arise:
1. While retrobolting is discouraged here, it has been generally accepted that rotten piton placements (where there is no other protection) can be replaced by a bolt at the same level. Other examples of this at Bolt City are John Allen Corner and Labours of Love.

2. In this case, there is a small wire placement immediately above the piton, but it could best be described as adequate, and the consequences of its failure in a fall from the crux moves could be very serious.

3. Bolt placement and removal on or close to existing climbs should be done by consensus: anonymously vandalising is not the best way to go. One of the virtues of the Dunedin climbing scene is its laid back and friendly atmosphere.

Sun, 06/03/2011 - 09:25 Permalink
UUID
 
6441f3e7-1578-42ce-9137-16d2bbfb1f31