A small cliff consisting of high quality, water worn schist. Due to erosion by (presumably) the Clutha River this crag has nice scoops and flakes which make for nice three dimensional climbing - not a lot of crimping to be found here. The routes are quite short 6 - 10m. The right hand end can work well for top roping/easier leading and the middle to left of the crag has some entertaining routes in the low 20s. Worth an hour or two of your time if you are driving SH8 and you want to get a climb in. The bolting is relatively modern and all routes have double bolt anchors with chains aside from the route that seems to go nowhere (marked with ? on the topo). Most routes can be accesses from the top of the crag. Developed by Russell Braddock.
Access via the Bendigo picnic and camping area (Lake Dunstan) adjacent to SH8 approximately 15 minutes drive north of Cromwell. Drive down to the boat ramp and you can't miss the crag.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| FPS | Fancy Pants Salmon | 20 | 6m | 3 |
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| TR | The Rat | 21 | 8m | 4 |
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| R2 | Rat Two | 22 | 8m | 4 |
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| BRT | Boat Ramp Traverse | 18 | 9m | 4 |
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| ER | Ever Rude | 15 | 8m | 3 |
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| DF | Dog Food | 13 | 7m | 3 |
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| U | Unnamed | 11 | 10m | 3 |