Place info

Wall of Thugs (upper)

(9 routes)

The Steep wall with the big roofs on the left side.
Access is from the Little Lost Wall - head R, south, until you are in the 1080 Gully - there is a fixed line that leads you up to the 1080 belay. To start Typhoon Tongue or the other routes from the traverse ledge you can either traverse across from the 1080 ledge or climb one of the routes on the Lower Wall. Due to the cliff shape and for the complete experience Java Jive and Burn,Hollywood,Burn finish over the top and require a top belay (tree) and the 2nd to follow. Alternatively back clean the route.

  • South West

    Aspect

New Zealand map
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South West

The Steep wall with the big roofs on the left side.
Access is from the Little Lost Wall - head R, south, until you are in the 1080 Gully - there is a fixed line that leads you up to the 1080 belay. To start Typhoon Tongue or the other routes from the traverse ledge you can either traverse across from the 1080 ledge or climb one of the routes on the Lower Wall. Due to the cliff shape and for the complete experience Java Jive and Burn,Hollywood,Burn finish over the top and require a top belay (tree) and the 2nd to follow. Alternatively back clean the route.

Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
24
0
  Above 1080 & the letter G.

Wolfgang

1080
23
3
13m
6X bolts
  Step across from the belay ledge and ascend the exposed roof.

Colin Phol & Lionel Clay 1991

TT
22
2.01
13m
6X bolts
  Start on the 1080 ledge, move right and climb through the roof parralell and to the right of 1080.

Chris Burtenshaw 1998

JJ
22
1.02
12m
6X bolts
  A direct line about 4m R of the Typhoon Tongue start. It joins BHB at it's traverse and they share the same finish. There is a DBB below the ledge that allows you to view your leader.

Simon Middlemass 1998

BHB
21
2.01
13m
6X bolts
One or more images in route detail.
  Starts R of JJ where the ledge is constricted, goes up for about 3 bolts before traversing left to finish over the top.

Simon Middlemass 1998

Wt
21
1.02
10m
4X bolts
  Goes through Rh end of roof climb just right of the flowstone.

Al Mark 1992

IS
24
1.02
12m
5X bolts
  Starts at Rh end of the 1080 ledge, jug crank and reach through the roof.

Martin Wilson 1992

26
3
5X bolts
  Starts 3m right of Intensive Scare. Step off the very end of the ledge and head straight out across roof. 5B. "A definite contender for the most outrageous position at Paynes, wild moves on solid holds the whole way!" Recommend a back belay to Intensive Scare chain for more enjoyable climbing /belay experience. A 60m rope is essential to lower/abseil off the anchors.

Rich Turner 2008

BMJ
26
2.01
12m
7X bolts
  Starts as for the 2nd pitch to Dread Carefully. Move left at the 3rd bolt to ascend the wall.

Jeremy Strang 1992

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