Place info

Rarangi Crag

(9 routes)

This crag is made up of short sport climbs. Best to visit in summer as rock can take ages to dry when wet. Beware of sandflys.

  • 5 min

    Walk in

Type: 
Crag

This crag is made up of short sport climbs. Best to visit in summer as rock can take ages to dry when wet. Beware of sandflys.

Access: 

From the entrance to the Monkey Bay Car Park, head along the road to the right and this crag is found on the right hand side of the road just after the large left hand corner.

Walk time: 
5 min
NZMS260: 
P28 975789
Topo50: 
BQ29 875 172
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
CS
18
0
2X bolts
  Make your way up the blank slab to the Rappel anchors. Crux moves above 2nd bolt.
2
14
0
3X bolts
  Just to the right of Crab Slab. Follow the system of ledges to the chains at the top. This route is also easily climbed on trad gear with good pro under the large overlap.
3
17
0
3X bolts
  Right of Crab Slab. Challenging climbing on small holds up to the 2nd bolt gives way to easier climbing up anchor.
4
17
0
5X bolts
  Right of Route 3. Climb up the blank looking face on small holds to the horizontal break, after this the climbing becomes easier and finishes at a chain anchor.
5
16
0
4X bolts
  Follow the bolts over the tricky bottom section and finish as for Route 4.
6
13
0
Natural gear required
  This trad route runs up the prominent crack line to the right of Route 5. Build an anchor at the top by slinging a block or walk over and use the anchors for Routes 4 and 5.
7
19
0
5X bolts
  Follow the track at the bottom of the crag to the right for 10m and you will find Route 7. Climb up to the ledge, move right and climb over the small roof, some tricky moves required to clear the roof.
8
22
0
4X bolts
  The route climbs the blank face on small holds. The crux moves are found at about the third bolt. Sling the tree for an anchor or use the single bolt with a shackle. Probably would be easier to walk off this route.

Simon Cundy, 2000

9
14
0
Natural gear required
  The Route can be found hidden in the trees directly opposite Rarangi wall. Climb the obvious line up and around the semi detached Blocks. Lower of the tree at the top or walk off. A pretty awful route really

Matthew Sheat

Attribution: 
Description & topos by Matthew Sheat
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