Type
Part of
South East Face of Vampire Peak
Aspect
South East
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Notforustwo | 5 | ||||
2 | Far From The Madding Crowd | 5- | ||||
3 | Nosferatu | 6- | ||||
4 | Bram Stoker | 5- | ||||
5 | Swiss Virgins | 4+ | ||||
Single and Searching | 6,V,WI5,M6 | 500m | ||||
Twilight | WI3 |
Comments
UUID
12ec2cea-3742-4eb4-b0e2-8b83e33f7dea
Obviously the rockfall off vampire might change these descriptions
It is worth reading the GNS Report http://www.geonet.org.nz/content/download/7522/.../file/SR_2008-10.pdf
By the way that corner route marked as #5 in the pic would make an outstanding modern mixed alpine climb.
Most of the corner gets enough ice to climb easily, but the top pitch is overhanging on the right hand side of the corner. The ice there is thin or relatively non-existant. But a modern climber interested in mixed, and hooking on rock, would find this route an absolute delight. The last pitch is the crux. Its probably an Alpine grade 5 depending on conditions.
Check with Carol Nash or Rob Blackburne but I believe that corner marked on the pic as route 5 is still unclimbed.
Considering it was graded 4+ my best guess is that Swiss Virgins climbs easier ground to the LHS on that upper glacial shelf.