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Vampire

Type
Mountain
Altitude
2645m
Part of
Main Divide
Lat/lon
-43.74156988,169.9963544, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BY15 581 524
Accessed from
Mueller Glacier
South East Face of Vampire (circled areas denote rockfalls), December 2013

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
2.35 2.35South West Ridge, III,2+ III,2+ 0m
0

Gain the Main Divide at Bernard Col or one of the options further north (crux – technical grade 4). Then follow north along rotten rock on the Main Divide (much nicer with plenty of snow). It’s also possible to drop down to the west and climb the north west ridge. The technical grade is from Bernard Col.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Technical) 2+
2.41 2.41North East Ridge, III,3 III,3 0m
0

Via the Bannie Glacier and Christopher Col, then south over and around several rotten rock towers on the Main Divide.
The first ascentionists then traversed Mt Burns and descended to the Spence Glacier via the Poet Glacier.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Technical) 3

Places

Type Name Alert
Face South East Face
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Comments
This place appears in
Aoraki Tai Poutini: a guide for mountaineers, 2018
Buy this guidebook
Attribution
ATP 2018 (Rob Frost)
UUID
 
3e976f59-3895-4fc2-b90e-cf132b7c78aa