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Mt Thomson

Type
Mountain
Altitude
2642m
Part of
Lat/lon
-43.706214,170.022919, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BX15 601 564
Image

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
2.53 2.53Original Route, IV,2+ IV,2+ 0m
0

Access the Donne Glacier from the Frind-Mueller confluence. From the true right edge of the lower Frind Glacier, head up a gully onto a rock rib north of the Ngaroimata Falls, gaining height and tending right to reach the frequently broken Donne.
Ascend left towards the col between Thomson and Eagle Peak, but well before the col head up a rock rib onto the south (Main Divide) ridge.
A large rockfall from the east face onto the Frind Glacier during 1996 may have affected this route.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Alpine (Technical) 2+


15.19 15.19South East Ridge, IV,3+ IV,3+ 0m
0

Start up the lower south face, then angle right up a snow lead to the col north of Pt 2453m. Follow the Divide ridge to the summit.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Alpine (Technical) 3+


2.54 2.54Direct #2, V,3+ V,3+ 0m
0

Access the Donne Glacier from the Frind-Mueller confluence. From the true right edge of the lower Frind Glacier, head up a gully onto a rock rib north of the Ngaroimata Falls, gaining height and tending right to reach the frequently broken Donne.
Head up the face on Thomson via a rib left of the prominent overhang on the face.
A large rockfall from the east face onto the Frind Glacier during 1996 may have affected this route.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) V
  • Alpine (Technical) 3+


2.55 2.55Direct #1, V,4 V,4 0m
0

Access the Donne Glacier from the Frind-Mueller confluence. From the true right edge of the lower Frind Glacier, head up a gully onto a rock rib north of the Ngaroimata Falls, gaining height and tending right to reach the frequently broken Donne.
Ascend the face and turn the prominent overhang on its northern extremity.
A large rockfall from the east face onto the Frind Glacier during 1996 may have affected this route.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) V
  • Alpine (Technical) 4


15.18 15.18West Ridge, III,2+ III,2+ 0m
1.02

This ridge provides an excellent access route between Harpers Rock and the area around Brunner Col. From Harpers Rock, ascend easy slopes of the broad lower ridge. Avoid a sharper section of the ridge between 2000m and 2140m by sidling on the north. Above 2200m, either stay on the crest of the ridge itself (straightforward snow and rock with some moderate slabs in late summer) or continue sidling on the north to access snowfields north of the summit, from where 150m of steep scrambling leads to the summit.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Technical) 2+


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Comments
Attribution
ATP 2018 (Rob Frost)
UUID
 
1b5f1ed7-e5ae-4306-82d6-917bc6baaacf