Place info

Mt Jervois

(3 routes)

When iced up the south-west face of Jervois looks to have plenty of new route potential. Some short crag-style routes have been developed on the rock buttresses near Centennial Hut by Peter Taw and John Entwisle. The first route (crux 18) is situated south-west of the hut, on the third buttress from the left as you face it. The second route (crux 20) is on the distinctive red buttress north-east of the hut, and north of Jervois. This route takes a groove.

  • 2630m

    Altitude

Type: 
Mountain
Altitude: 
2630m

When iced up the south-west face of Jervois looks to have plenty of new route potential. Some short crag-style routes have been developed on the rock buttresses near Centennial Hut by Peter Taw and John Entwisle. The first route (crux 18) is situated south-west of the hut, on the third buttress from the left as you face it. The second route (crux 20) is on the distinctive red buttress north-east of the hut, and north of Jervois. This route takes a groove.

NZMS260: 
H35 867 401
Topo50: 
BX16 767 785
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
0
  Easy scrambling on the northern Divide ridge. The southern Divide ridge is steeper and has good rock.

Alex Graham, B Marsden, Apr 1916.

2+
1.02
  Follow the ridge above Centennial Hut over two distinct gendarmes and onto the summit. Good rock. An excellent warm-up before breakfast.

Miss I Corry, Mark Lysons, Jan 1933.

3-
2.01
 

Climb two pitches up the big snow ramp on the SW aspect to the ridge (about 50-60-degrees alpine ice but likely conditions dependent). Travel eastwards along the ridge toward the summit for about one rope length. There can be a short, very narrow and exposed section near the summit where care will need to be taken. From here is less than a full rope length to the summit, from memory.
Descend via the north side, 4 abseils from memory, possibly 5. Be aware of the 'schrund when returning to the neve.
Excellent intro route to the area for progressing mountaineers. A fun half day out.

G Pennycook, F Eldridge, L Andersson, November 2008

Attribution: 
Alex Palman
This place appears in: 
Aoraki Mount Cook: a guide for mountaineers
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