The first ascent of the South Face was made by Pete Moore and Revill Bennett on Christmas Eve, 1971. The climb commenced as a reconnaissance in deteriorating weather at 2pm and was concluded, 12 hours later, in a snowstorm. A bivouac was attempted on the face but in the absence of adequate bivvy gear it was soon abandoned and the climb continued.
Subsequent attempts to dig in were also abandoned due to cold and lack of food and the descent was eventually commenced at 2am, French Ridge Hut being regained at 9am.
The second ascent was made by Bill Denz and Limbo Thompson in early May 1972. They started up the face at 1pm bivvying as darkness fell, about 50 metres below the upper part of the Coxcomb Ridge before completing the climb and returning to French Ridge the next day.
A direct finish to the route was made by Moore and Bennett in August, 1973. A variation including the lower rock band was climbed by Ken Hyslop and Neil Whiston in January 1976.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Original Line | IV,4 | ||||
2 | Denz Thompson | IV,4 | ||||
3 | Quite Direct | IV,5 | ||||
4 | Santa Claws | IV,5 | ||||
5 | Mixed Aspirations | IV,5+ | ||||
6 | 24 Hour Party People | IV,5+ | ||||
7 | Whiston Hyslop Line | IV,5+ | ||||
P | Perspiring | 5+ | ||||
S | Shooting Star | 5+,WI3,M4 | ||||
Shooting Thar | 5+,IV | |||||
T | Thales | |||||
8 | Leo Hugo | IV,5 | ||||
9 | The Shiny Beast | IV,5 | ||||
Kia rapu i tōku māramatanga [Seeking the Light] | IV,5,WI3,M4 | 300m | ||||
10 | Chocolate Fish Route | III,4 |