Type: 
Mountain
Altitude: 
3149m

tba

NZMS260: 
H36 814 347
Topo50: 
BX15 714 731
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
3+
0
  From the névé between Syme Ridge and Mt Dixon climb directly to the summit detouring where icecliffs dictate.

(Possibly) Rob Rainsbury, Dick Strong, Keith Thompson, John Visser, Dec 1970. Don Bogie, Peter Sommerville, Aug 1977.

2
0
  From Marcel Col the route is straightforward (however, hard ice can form easily here, especially in winter). This is also the most common way Engineer Col and the North Shoulder of Tasman are gained. An easy descent route, but beware of the cornice that sometimes forms on the summit of Lendenfeld.

Alex Graham, Henry Newton, Feb 1907.

3
0
  Gain the large snow shelf left of Hamilton-Berry rib by a short rock/mixed step. Ascend to the top left end of the snow shelf through a mixed gully to the summit ice-cap.

Andrew McAuley, Andrew Corvini, Feb 1992.

3+
0
  The bottom 200m provides steep sound climbing and the rib then slowly relents to form a “Giant’s Staircase”.

Alan Berry, Neil Hamilton, Dec 1955.

3
0
  Up the snow and ice gully between the two rock buttresses. This route may lack ice later in summer.

Merv English, Peter Hillary, Nena Ritchie, Jul 1978.

3+
1.02
  Parallels the Hamilton-Berry Rib, with good climbing on slabs and ribs of excellent rock.

Dave Bamford, John Nankervis, Feb 1977.

6+
0
Natural gear required
One or more images in route detail.
  9 pitch route on West Face of Lendenfeld. The first 5 following a stonking line. The route takes a line originally climbed as arock route by Andy McFarlane and John McCartney but details are hard to come by.

Allan Uren,Tim Robinson, Julian White

4 16
1.02
  2 short hard climbs on excellent rock, commencing on the right side of the face (crux 16). Bell/Bogie/Hyslop climbed the face more directly, Allen/ Williams climbed a line commencing from the gully on the right, Nov 1978. This is right of the obvious line of "The Mutant"

Lindsay Bell, Don Bogie and Ken Hyslop John Allen and Zane Williams

2
0
  Straightforward, but slightly threatened by avalanches off Mt Tasman. Glacier access can sometimes become cut off.

Alex Graham, Henry Newton, Feb 1907 (Descended).

Attribution: 
Alex Palman Photo by Clayton Garbes
This place appears in: 
100 Peaks
Aoraki Mount Cook: a guide for mountaineers

Comments

Comments

Probable new route between HB rib and NW rib.

This rock route takes the right hand visual profile as seen from Pioneer Hut.

Start up snow just left of bottom of rib and cut onto rock at any convenience. Follow the rib traversing along pinnacles, chevals, loose sections, until the obvious black triangular wall is attained. Traverse a rising ledge/ramp up the black wall from left to right. Finish straight up wide cracks or shallow chimney (crux 15). The route then merges with the upper section of the Hamilton Berry rib.

This is a challenging and interesting mountaineering route which requires some care, however it is not technical rock climb.

Alpine grade 4. Peter K-D, Lisa Wynne, December 2011

Do you have some pics or photo topo you could upload to show the line ?

route name is "Midsomer Muntaneering"

Good job on the route Peter. Could you please add it to the database?

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