This is the classic route across the Main Divide Kā Tiritiri o te Moana, first discovered and crossed from west to east by the Ngāi Tahu ancestor Hinetamatea, her two sons and their wives.
It used to be possible to approach the Copland Ridge via an easy walk up a gentle track to Hooker Hut. Unfortunately, those days are long gone. The route is now both more difficult and more unpleasant than FitzGerald Pass. Neither Hooker Hut nor the track to it remains, due to major slumping and erosion of the western Hooker moraine terraces. DOC may soon remove Copland Shelter – check with the Visitor Centre before your trip.
For current route information consult park staff at the Visitor Centre.
Routes to reach the base of the ridge are described on the Hooker Glacier page.
Consult park staff at the Visitor Centre before attempting this route.
From the Hooker Glacier there used to be a route – with the assistance of a cable – up the slumped, vegetated terrace on the moraine wall between the Fitzgerald and Copland guts. This is now well beyond repair and the only feasible alternative is to use the lower section of Copland Stream, climbing up to about 1200m before turning left to join the old route up Copland Ridge.
Once on the ridge, the old track is occasionally evident. Travel up the prow of the ridge, following your nose around obstacles. There are a number of options all of a similar difficulty and eventually the ridge narrows to a final section before the baked bean can barrel of Copland Shelter is reached at 1960m.
Above the shelter, climb to the right of the rock ridge, tending right on a diagonal snow slope (this is exposed, with a serious run-out) until gently-angled snow is reached. The Copland Pass is any one of a number of rock notches, but the best one to use is the left-most notch. Late in the summer, schrunds on the eastern slopes and adjacent to the rock can present difficulties. From the pass, drop directly down a 50m rocky gut on the western side to meet the Jubilee Route from FitzGerald Pass in the basin at about 1800m.
Times:
White Horse Hill to Copland Shelter: 8–10 hrs
Copland Shelter to Pass: 1–1.5 hrs
Copland Pass to Douglas Rock Hut: 3–4 hrs
