Place info

West Face

(10 routes)

The following climbs lie in the central area of Moir’s Mate and use either the initial pitches of the Bowen Allan Corner or corners further right to gain some broken ledges which signal the start of these routes.

  • West

    Aspect

Type: 
Face
Aspect: 
West

The following climbs lie in the central area of Moir’s Mate and use either the initial pitches of the Bowen Allan Corner or corners further right to gain some broken ledges which signal the start of these routes.

Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
11
18
0
Natural gear required
  Move left beyond the broken ledges before straightening. Continue up the left side of the headwall; the crux pitch is an off-width below the overhangs, then right past the roofs finishing with an excellent pitch up the split headwall crack.

Murray Jones, Keith Nannery, Jan 1969.

IV WI4
0
  Climb the layback first pitch of the Central Route then trend up and right to finish via the top of the Fantini Coradine. "The climbing was not all that hard but required quite a lot of care here and there due to cold hands and little icy bits. For most of the climb protection was about the same as summer...used a couple of pegs in this pre-Friends era. On the top couple of pitches a Southerly front hit us, these pitches were dangerous, though not hard they iced quickly and there was no pro, no belays and the climbing became a bit subtle. Judy actually untied from the rope while I led the last pitch!" Merv English

Merv English, Judith Terpstra, 1974.

12
20
0
Natural gear required
  Start as for the Central Line, but turns right under the overhangs which cut the top slabs then up a steep fingery crack in the overhanging wall, crux 20. Continue up V groove to top.

Merv English, Dave Fearnley, Calum Hudson, 1983.

13
17
0
Natural gear required
  Starting at the broken ledges, traverse right into a corner system which leads to a delicate left slanting slab. Climb the slab (crux) then a 20 metre abseil down and left before climbing into a gully towards the prominent overhang. Move out right below the overhang then to the summit.

Paul Coradine, John Fantini, 1970. The crux section moving onto the slab was originally aided with a skyhook. It was soon freed by James Jenkins in 1973.

14
18
0
  From the skyhook move, on the Fantini Coradine line. Up and right two rope-lengths.

Robin McNeill, Hugh Van Noorden, 1985.

15
19
0
Natural gear required
  A direct finishe above the skyhook move on the Fantini Coradine line

Neal Mathieson, Hugh Widdowson, 1988.

16 ,18 ,20 ,14 ,21 ,21 ,21 ,18 ,21 ,20
3
302m
19X bolts
Natural gear required
One or more images in route detail.
 

Right of BAC left of FK
A high quality route, some sections may have be climbed before.
Recommend, rap from the top, 30m, 60m, 30m, 60m, 60m, 60m.

  1. Slab Climbing
  2. Steepening cracks
  3. Corner to slab
  4. Scramble up
  5. Corner, small roof, layback
  6. Continue up corner
  7. Slab climbing, left of the big block, then back right.
  8. Up left facing corners
  9. Steep crack through upper headwall
  10. Slab climbing through upper headwall.

Dave Shotwell, Nick Cradock, Jonathan Gillan 2016

15 ,19 ,18 ,12 ,22 ,21 ,21 ,21 ,21
3
280m
25X bolts
Natural gear required
One or more images in route detail.
 

The "Lucky Strike" of trad climbing. Excellent rock & gear, sustained climbing. Topo attatched to the climb description.
Equipment: 2x 50m ropes, rack of wire down to #RP, Camalots, C3- #3(blue), double up on 0.5 & 0.75 + 12 draws inc extenders.
All belays equiped with absiel rings

  1. Start 50m right of BA Cnr. Bolt at start of rte. Initialed (FK)
  2. Pitches 4&5.Scrambling on good rock with DBB in between to big ledge & Trad belay.
  3. or climb optional corner (17)

Murray Ball, Nick Craddock & Dave Shotwell 2013

18 , 18 , 18 , 19 , 20 , 20 , 13
0
275m
55X bolts
Natural gear required
One or more images in route detail.
 

The original topo is attacthed, click on Lucky Strike.
A quality route, well equipped with bolts, climbing the buttress on the right-hand side of the Mate. Seven pitches (280m), plus an optional further pitch to the ridge and a scramble to the summit. Take 2 x 50m ropes, a small rack of medium wires, cams to hand size and a dozen quickdraws. Abseil descent is best.

  1. Start 150 metres right of the Bowen Allan Corner. Access via a good ledge slightly further right. Bolts and natural pro. It’s possible to belay at the seventh bolt, with a cam, to reduce drag and increase visibility.
  2. Follow the bolts left, then back right.
  3. Bolts to a steep section, then some natural pro.
  4. Some natural pro.
  5. Climb 15 metres to where a dyke leads right to the top of the Mates Little Brother, or continue up to a belay station.

Murray Ball, Nick Cradock, David Shotwell, February 2010

24
2.01
Natural gear required
 

6 pitches

a six pitch affair with pitches ranging in difficulty from grade 17 to 24. Nick comments that the one grade 24 pitch is an ‘absolute stunner’ and that a good rack is required for the climb

Dave Shotwell, Nick Cradock, Murray Ball, 2012

Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies
This place appears in: 
The Darran Mountains: an alpine and rock climbing guide
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