Place info

Copper Point

(1 route)

Local name for the truncated base of the North Ridge of Mitre Peak.
Up to 200m vertical walls, a massive capping overhang, and slabs on the west side. Logistics can be a little tricky but well repaid by some of the most spectacular climbing anywhere.

  • North

    Aspect

  • 0m

    Altitude

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
North
Altitude: 
0m

Local name for the truncated base of the North Ridge of Mitre Peak.
Up to 200m vertical walls, a massive capping overhang, and slabs on the west side. Logistics can be a little tricky but well repaid by some of the most spectacular climbing anywhere.

Access: 

Accessed via sea to the point, or helicopter to the plateau on top.

If via sea, the landing is a rock ramp facing west so expect increased swell in the afternoon. The seal colony seems relaxed. Closest good camping is at Bridal Veil Falls beach, 1km west. Moraine Beach, 3km west, also offers camping plus more climbing. Routes have been attempted directly from the water but require power boats. By sea-kayak it is about 2 hours from Deep Water Cove. Try Roscos Sea Kayaks for water taxi options.

If via helicopter, be aware that camping at the top is very exposed. Water is about a 300m gnarly scrub bash away.

Copper Point juts out into the Sound and constricts the sea breeze so it can get blowy. On the plus side, this often keeps the sandflies away. Wind shells, long sleeves, long thin socks you can climb in and insect repellent are all a good idea.

NZMS260: 
D40 016 089
Topo50: 
CA08 915 472
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
19
3
170m
Natural gear required
1
 

17,18,19,19. 170m. Great climbing in a fabulous position. Has had rave reviews by repeat ascensionists, according to the first ascensionists. Many bolts + some trad. Bring a single rack up to 3 Camelot. 2 x 50m ropes required.
If accessed from below, from the rock apron scramble to the solar panel, down and across to the exposed arete. Scramble up arete and find track through scrub. The hotel-sized rock is passed via fixed ropes on the right. The track continues to bolts marking the start of the route.
If accessed from above, the top abseil rings can be found at the highest point of the wall.

Bruce Dowrick, Bryan Moore, Tony Ward-Holmes. 13/12/14

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