Place info

Great White Slabs

(7 routes)

These slabs, behind Gill’s Bivvy in the Adelaide Cirque, cemented the Darrans’ reputation for quality friction climbing.
A beautiful sweep of rock located directly up and right of Gills Bivvy. Once popular for its smooth sustained slab climbing the area has been neglected over the past decade with the slow deterioration of the bolts. There is a danger of being hit early season by rock and ice from the shelf above, particularly on the left-hand side.

Flutterby and Braustin Ooks share the same initial pitch. Starting somewhere in the middle of the slab, climb up unprotectable ground to a belay on natural pro in a little right-facing corner.

  • North

    Aspect

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
North

These slabs, behind Gill’s Bivvy in the Adelaide Cirque, cemented the Darrans’ reputation for quality friction climbing.
A beautiful sweep of rock located directly up and right of Gills Bivvy. Once popular for its smooth sustained slab climbing the area has been neglected over the past decade with the slow deterioration of the bolts. There is a danger of being hit early season by rock and ice from the shelf above, particularly on the left-hand side.

Flutterby and Braustin Ooks share the same initial pitch. Starting somewhere in the middle of the slab, climb up unprotectable ground to a belay on natural pro in a little right-facing corner.

NZMS260: 
D40 166 960
Topo50: 
CB09 065 342
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
6
20
0
  On the smooth left side of the slabs, follow a slightly dry streak kept clean by frequent avalanches. A hint for falling off this route - turn and run! Strictly a late summer climb. “Just follow the line of mangled unusable bolts” Dave Vass

Dave Vass, Steve Moore, 1986.

7
19
2.01
1
  Four pitches. Initial climbing tends up and right before curving back left past some well spaced 25 year old bolts.

Bill Atkinson, Brian Fish, Al Cutler, Rick McGregor, Peter Newton, 1979.

8
19
2.01
  Four pitches. The last pitch takes an unlikely traverse below an overlap followed by a mantelshelf through the overlap.

Brian Fish, Chris Morris, Feb 1980.

9
19
2.01
1
  Four pitches. Initial climbing tends up and right before curving back left past some well spaced 25 year old bolts.

Bill Atkinson, Brian Fish, Al Cutler, Rick McGregor, Peter Newton, 1979.

14 , 16 , 16 , 16
0
Natural gear required
 

A moderate slab route, protected with 10mm stainless steel bolts. Follows the driest area of the slabs

  1. scramble up to a wide ledge then follow a seam up the slab with a few cam placements til the start of the bolts.
  2. a couple of moves through the bulge to reach the belay

Murray Judge, Nick Cradock, January 2008

10
1.02
 

Brian Fish, Richard Mortensen, Feb 1980.

11
0
  “Named after meeting him, he’d fallen on lead while putting in a bolt in the slabs and had skinned his butt” Phil de Joux.

Al Mark, Phil de Joux, 1985.

This place appears in: 
The Darran Mountains: an alpine and rock climbing guide
This site is a beta version.