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Homer Tunnel Slabs

(3 routes)

Place info

Homer Tunnel Slabs

(3 routes)

The Homer Tunnel slabs are 200m vertically above the tunnel portal on the Hollyford side. The crag is fast drying and sports two 200m metre routes, equipped with bolts and chain belays. The routes run between the prominent water streaks and if combined can give 11 pitches of excellent climbing.
The slabs can be prone to rock fall from broken ground higher on the ridge. Wear a helmet and don’t climb if you can see threatening snow patches above you in springtime.

Although both routes are primarily bolt protected, nearly every pitch requires at least some natural protection. Carry a set of nuts and cams #0.5 to #3. Anchors are rigged for abseiling although you will require two ropes.

Both Rock Busking and Stage Fright share the same first pitches.

  • East

    Aspect

  • 1100m

    Altitude

New Zealand map

Map, Topo

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
East
Altitude: 
1100m

The Homer Tunnel slabs are 200m vertically above the tunnel portal on the Hollyford side. The crag is fast drying and sports two 200m metre routes, equipped with bolts and chain belays. The routes run between the prominent water streaks and if combined can give 11 pitches of excellent climbing.
The slabs can be prone to rock fall from broken ground higher on the ridge. Wear a helmet and don’t climb if you can see threatening snow patches above you in springtime.

Although both routes are primarily bolt protected, nearly every pitch requires at least some natural protection. Carry a set of nuts and cams #0.5 to #3. Anchors are rigged for abseiling although you will require two ropes.

Both Rock Busking and Stage Fright share the same first pitches.

Access: 

Climb up scree and grass slopes to the right of the tunnel (looking up) until you reach rock slabs. Traverse left on tussock and slab ledges gaining height up grassy gullies only when you are almost directly below and slightly left of the routes. Step back right to ledge and bolts.

NZMS260: 
D40 132 928
Topo50: 
CB08 031 310
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
1
21 ,19 ,18 ,19
1.02
200m
Natural gear required
 
  1. Both Rock Busking and Stage Fright share the same first pitches. Two alternatives exist and are common to both routes: Left hand line: 20/21, Sustained friction and thin face climbing. Right hand line: Morning Glory 18. A less intense start to the day. Careful at third clip. Jen Purdie, 1996.
  2. Interesting friction and face climbing. Sustained friction climbing with spaced bolts, moving right past the 4th bolt. Move 15m down and right to belay for Pitch Two.
  3. Up on natural gear, through small left facing corner to finish past two pitons and one bolt.
  4. Bolts and natural gear.

Sam Bosshard, John Dainty, 1995.
2
20
0
  Alternative second pitch to Rock Busking. From Kobi’s Ledge trend right then curve back left to belay. All bolts.

Sam Bosshard, John Dainty, 1996.
3
21 ,17 ,18 ,20 ,19
3
210m
Natural gear required
 
  1. Both Rock Busking and Stage Fright share the same first pitches. Two alternatives exist and are common to both routes: Left hand line: 20/21, Sustained friction and thin face climbing. Right hand line: Morning Glory 18. A less intense start to the day. Careful at third clip. Jen Purdie, 1996.
  2. A steeper line with more varied climbing on slabs, flakes and cracks. If water groove is dry, up this on natural gear,15, to DBB on left. If groove is wet move left at piton and up past two bolts,
  3. Move right and up, across water streak to gain ledge and first bolt. Then head straight up. Excellent climbing.
  4. Move left at first bolt, up through layback corner then on to belay.
  5. Have a 1.5 cam ready.

Sam Bosshard, John Dainty, 1995.
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies
This place appears in: 
The Darran Mountains: an alpine and rock climbing guide
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