Place info

Homer Saddle Crag

(10 routes)

Located on the left-hand side of the track just before the Homer Saddle, this crag contains a mixture of bolted and natural routes around 10-20m metres long. The top of the crag gives a panoramic view of the Upper Hollyford and Cleddau Valleys.

  • North East

    Aspect

  • 1300m

    Altitude

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
North East
Altitude: 
1300m

Located on the left-hand side of the track just before the Homer Saddle, this crag contains a mixture of bolted and natural routes around 10-20m metres long. The top of the crag gives a panoramic view of the Upper Hollyford and Cleddau Valleys.

NZMS260: 
D40 128 933
Topo50: 
CB08 027 315
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
2
20
0
30m
Natural gear required
  The shady side of this block. Facing the lowest block climb the arête to a diagonal break. Follow this to a vertical crack then up left arête to top.

Steve Carr, Rob Wigley, Feb 1999.

3
20
0
30m
Natural gear required
  Up centre of block then through overhang to spike at top.

Steve Carr, Rob Wigley, Feb 1999.

4
26
0
Natural gear required
  The overhanging right-hand arête on the lower block: steep face climbing followed by a desperate hand crack.

Chris Plant, 1994.

5
18 ,
0
Natural gear required
 
  1. Climbs the face and arête of the lowest block as you approach the saddle. Start at the metal stake, climb a short crack on the left, move right and climb up to the arête. Continue to a belay on the ‘horse’.
  2. Climb the crack system and right to finish up the arête. Not a route for short people with weak hearts.

Dave Vass, Andi the Swiss, Dec 1989.

6
23
0
Natural gear required
  On the highest block on the left just as you reach Homer Saddle.

Dave Vass, Mar 1991.

7
21
1.02
Natural gear required
  On the highest block on the left just as you reach Homer Saddle.

Dave Vass, Dec 1989.

8
24
0
Natural gear required
  Two short pitches of 22 and 24.

Dave Vass, Mar 1991.

9
19
1.02
Natural gear required
  16 and 19 The two central cracks that split the wall. Interesting climbing with good protection.

Graeme Dingle.

10
26
0
 

Colin Pohl, Feb 1991.

11
25
2.01
  A steep wall.

Dave Vass, Mar 1990.

Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies
This place appears in: 
The Darran Mountains: an alpine and rock climbing guide
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