Place info

South Face

(3 routes)

The 300-metre-high south face of Taiaroa’s south peak rises steeply out of the Korako glacier approximately 300m right of Crampon Pass.

  • South

    Aspect

Type: 
Face
Aspect: 
South

The 300-metre-high south face of Taiaroa’s south peak rises steeply out of the Korako glacier approximately 300m right of Crampon Pass.

NZMS260: 
D40 185 023
Topo50: 
CB09 085 406
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
0
 

Lindsay Stewart, Jim Dakin, Jack Warren, December 1937

0
  On the South face. An easy scramble up a left-slanting groove and across ledges to the South Peak.

Murray Judge, Dave Begg, Hugh Logan, Andrew Smith, 1974.

2
15 , 21 , 21 , 15
0
Natural gear required
 
  1. On the South face. Starting at a large pyramidal block with a flat top in the centre of the south face. 1-2) 15, 45m. Get to top of pyramidal block.
  2. 3) 21. Head straight up from the right-hand side of the block in a fist sized crack until it becomes possible to traverse 5m left across a steep slab to the top of a large detached pillar. Head directly above the pillar to pull through the left-hand side of a short roof.
  3. 4) 21. Technical climbing trending up and right through thin cracks. Obvious and comfy belay at bollard on top of broken pillar
  4. 5-8) 15. Head up and right and follow weaknesses to where it becomes easy enough to unrope. An easy scramble would get you to the summit. A little vegetated but worth it. Descend to the snowfields in the Te Puoho then over Crampon Pass.

Jonathon Clearwater, Thomas Evans, Feb, 2005.

Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies
This place appears in: 
The Darran Mountains: an alpine and rock climbing guide
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