Place info

Taiaroa Pk

(16 routes)

See also Taiaroa South Peak.

  • 2154m



See also Taiaroa South Peak.

D40 170 023
CB09 069 406
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions

From the col between the high and south peaks it's a short scramble, mostly on the east side of the ridge.

A M Green, Jim Milne, Richard Stewart, January 1959

  From the basin on the north side of Tuhawaiki traverse round to the base of the buttress. Two rope lengths at the base of the buttress then scrambling to the summit.

Ken Calder, Bruce Clark, Pete Glasson, Al Smith, Mar 1973.

II 22 , 18 , 18
Natural gear required

The massive pillar on the north end of the west face: a series of towers. Awesome! At the base of the pillar is a large roof. The orange wall below this is split by a diagonal crack running R-L. Scramble/pitch to the grassy ledge below this.
The first crux pitch could possibly be avoided by scooting up to the right of the overhang and chimney to the base of the next tower.
Great looking walls on pitches 3, 5, and 6 (possibly grade 20/21?) could be climbed instead of the easier arête.

  1. Climb the diagonal over a wee roof to a step left to belay in or under alcove.
  2. Bust out right and steeply up to belay at blocks with rock drawbridge below the next tower.
  3. Pitches 3–9 continue up the pillar.

Rich Thomson, Rich Turner, 7 February 2016

Craig Jefferies
This place appears in: 
The Darran Mountains: an alpine and rock climbing guide


Face West Face (4 routes)
Mountain South Pk (3 routes)
Mountain Mighty Dur (3 routes)
Mountain Petit Dur (3 routes)
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