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Sabre Pk

Type
Altitude
2162m

Descent Routes off Sabre Peak
There are three options for descending off the summit of Sabre. All are quite involved.

  1. Down the East Ridge to the Sabre Adelaide Col and back into the Marian valley; conditions on the glacier vary depending on the season.
  2. Down the East Ridge to the Sabre Adelaide Col then descend the northern slopes to Phil’s Bivvy in Moraine Creek.
  3. Climb down the West Ridge, then traverse Marian and Barrier heading for Gertrude Saddle; the quickest way home.
Image
Lat/lon
POINT (168.05225442 -44.74716781)
Topo50
CB09 083 332
Access

Access to Sabre Peak from Phil’s Bivvy
From Phil's Bivvy drop down and across the basin towards the main waterfall below the North Buttress of Sabre, which usually has a large avalanche cone at its base. Cross the stream 100m down from the foot of the waterfall to slabs on the north side, climbing these to a narrow ledge leading left, up and across a grassy gut to a short rock slab. At the top go left to a short waterfall and then diagonally right up a rock ramp to a large terrace. Take the second gully at the right-hand end to the foot of the North Buttress, then continue to Sabre Adelaide Col, or head right over rock and snow to the Marian Sabre Col.
Descent route off Sabre Peak
The standard descent route is down the East Ridge. From the summit of Sabre drop down the north-east face then follow ledges down and right for 150m, slowly traversing to the East Ridge above the obvious gendarme. It is possible to abseil this section, two 60m raps. There is a small flat ledge located at the base of the gendarme which runs across the wall, there are a two separate rap lines with fix slings that descend from this ledge to the col. One of which, follows a gully found by traversing west 50m on the small flat ledge.

Accessed from
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Places

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
1 East Ridge
0
West Ridge
0
West Ridge (Winter Ascent)
0
Comments
Attribution
Craig Jefferies
UUID
 
f89dbe38-0310-433e-b996-e1cd02d7cd1d