HomeNZSouth IslandFiordlandDarran MountainsMt Talbot

North Face

(5 routes)

Place info

North Face

(5 routes)

North Face

  • North

    Aspect

New Zealand map
Type: 
Face
Aspect: 
North

North Face

Access: 

The north face is best accessed from Gertrude Saddle. Ascend tussock and snow slopes toward Traverse Pass, traversing into the face where possible.

Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
10
18
1.02
Natural gear required
  Six pitches. Take the obvious crack line directly right of the red wall into a niche at the top. Scramble up for one pitch and finish up Smithereens.

Charlie Hobbs, Calum Hudson, Mar 1985.
11
19 , 24 , 20
0
Natural gear required
 
  1. Climb the off-width: needs big gear.
  2. Take the overhanging flake corner just left of the snow patch; at the top of the flake move left following a break. Continue along the break or mantle to next break, move left and up the slab above to below the overhang.
  3. Move left below the overhang and up the middle of the slab.

Tim Robertson, Rob Wigley, Jan 2000.
12
17
1.02
Natural gear required
  The north-east pillar direct to the summit. Start up a crack-line to the right of the red wall passing the large snowfield on its left side, then follow cracks and chimneys to the summit.

Leigh Duncan, Calum Hudson, Barry Smith, Feb 1985.
13
18
1.02
Natural gear required
  500m to the right of the start of Smithereens, follow a crack and groove up the centre of the sweep of grey slabs to the ridge.

Calum Hudson, Barry Smith, Feb 1985.
14
17
0
Natural gear required
  Three pitches on the right-hand end of beautiful brown slabs. Climbs right facing flake system then slabs and crack to the major ledge above slab.

Sam Bosshard, Al Ritchie, 1996.
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies
This place appears in: 
The Darran Mountains: an alpine and rock climbing guide
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