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The Floating Buttress

Type

A 150m tall and 150m tall "Floating Buttress" that is detached from Madeline's Skirt by a 1-1.5m chasm.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 The View From Within, 18 18 225m
3

The largest chimney feature in New Zealand, Combined with a bit of caving and a window to view the Tutoko valley from inside the mountain!


  • P1
  • 15
  • 40m
  • Trad

A wandery pitch to the base of the mega chimney


  • P2
  • 13
  • 100m
  • Trad

Climb 2-3 pitches of epic chimneying. Little to no protection. But solid belays onto of large chock stones.


  • P3
  • 18
  • 15m
  • Trad

Bridge out of the top of chimney. Short steep hand jam boulder problem to gain belay onto a sofa-sized chock stone.


  • P4
  • 8
  • 50m
  • Trad

Bridge sideways (horizontally) into a deep fold of Madeline's Skirt (the chasm behind the floating buttress). Continue until you find a window looking out through the buttress to the Tutoko River 1000m below.


  • P5
  • 17
  • 20m
  • Trad

Climb inside out crack to the top of the floating buttress. Only grade 12 if you use the wall behind.


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