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Electric Earth

Grade
19,III
Length
740m
0
Quality
0
First ascent
Matt Quirke, Mark Watson, 27 January 2008
Located on

This route is fully equipped for abseil descent (16 abseils). Bolts were placed with abseiling in mind rather than belaying, so at some belays/stances it will be more comfortable to belay on natural pro. Take a full rack (cams to #4 Friend, and double set of wires).


  • P1
  • 8
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • 60m

Climb diagonally right up slabby crack system to big ledge. Belay bolt at right end.


  • P2
  • 18
  • 60m

Step down right, then climb diagonally up right, traversing past plants and bulges to ledge. Belay on natural pro or at bolt up and left on ledges.


  • P3
  • 10
  • 60m

Climb up and right from bolt (or straight up if on natural belay) then up broken ground to belay bolt.


  • P4
  • 16
  • 60m

Thin moves and pro off belay, then easier to ledge. From ledge climb up cracks and slabs to 2 bolt belay below big overhang/recess.


  • P5
  • 5
  • 100m

Traverse left around arête and corner to grassy ledges. At drainage gully climb up approx. 50m to belay bolt in right wall. (Simulclimbed – 100m total).


  • P6
  • 13
  • 60m

Climb out of gully via right wall and up arête then grass, trending right to bolt.


  • P7
  • 18
  • 55m

Tricky moves through overlap above belay, then slabby rock and arête to belay bolt in top of corner.


  • P8
  • 17
  • 60m

Grassy at first, staying near arête then up to a left-facing corner crack – climb this and over bulge to a bolt.


  • P9
  • 10
  • 55m

Move right around arête and into grassy gully. Climb directly up to base or prominent ramp that slices the arête/headwall. Bolt at base of ramp.


  • P10
  • 19
  • 60m

Climb featured ramp/wall, keeping right (spaced pro), to slopey arête. Up arête and behind massive jammed block, then up final corner and crack to bolt/belay on slab. Scramble up to base of next wall, belay on cam and nut.


  • P11
  • 12
  • 60m

Short wall and grassy steps to bolt belay on left wall of loose gully.


  • P12
  • 18
  • 50m

Climb slab then chimney/bridge to ledge and final short overhanging corner.


Comments
Attribution
Mark Watson
UUID
 
3e889e1c-9be8-4912-9c92-626575d9ccc3